Model Shipways Bluenose, Инструкция по эксплуатации

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17. Eyebolts & Cleats
Eyebolt locations are shown on Sheets 3
and 6. Drill a hole wherever one is
required. Attach blocks to eyebolts
requiring them. Using a toothpick or
Microbrush, spread a thin film of cyano-
acrylate on the bolt, then insert. Don’t
overdo the glue. When all are mounted,
test the bond by tugging on each eyebolt.
Eyebolts are simply brass wire bent into
a loop. To close the loop, touch with a
little solder or epoxy. Figure 5-11 shows
an easy way to produce scale eyebolts.
The twisted wire shank traps glue and
ensures a permanent bond.
18. Rudder
Taper the laser-cut rudder according to
the plans. Make pintles and gudgeons
from brass strip (Figure 5-12).
19. Dories & Dory Kids
Fashion the portable dory kids from
stripwood, then glue or pin them to the
deck. Kids and their dories were
removed during racing.
Use the laser-cut building fixture
(Figure 5-13) for laying up the eight
dories’ sides, bottoms, and transoms.
Make frames, thwarts, and oars from
stripwood. Since the number of dories
varied, add more or less as desired.
Detail can be omitted on the lower nest-
ed boats, because it isn’t visible. Stow
lower boat oars and thwarts in the top
boat or somewhere on deck.
Place port and starboard dory halves in
the fixture, then add the bottom and
transom. Hold the sides against the fix-
ture with the laser-cut clamps. Building
dories is a little tedious, but after the
first or second one things should go
smoothly. Using a cyanoacrylate may
help. Spray on an accelerator to reduce
the setting time.
20. Schooner’s Name
The transom and bow carry the ship’s
name. The best way to add this detail is to
buy dry transfer lettering (sold at art and
office supply stores or model railroad
shops). It probably isn’t available in the
correct color, so purchase black lettering,
then paint over it. After rubbing them on,
apply a coat of flat, clear varnish.
Another method is to make your own
decals by using dry transfer letters on a
clear decal sheet.
21. Flags
Although the plans don’t show any,
Canada’s flag should fly from the flag
halliard on the main gaff. Depending on
how
Bluenose
is presented, racing pen-
nants could go atop the fore and main
topmast. Make flags from cloth or paper
and paint them with acrylics.
All that remains is masting and rigging.
Before continuing, recheck everything,
sand, and paint. Painting is difficult
once the spars are up, so do it now.
Mast & Spar Construction
1. Shaping & Tapering
Masts & Spars
Dowels are provided for masts and
spars, but require shaping and tapering.
Sheet 4 shows them to scale with critical
dimensions given at maximum diameter
and at the ends.
Spar tapers
: Fishing schooners are a little
different from other ships. Notice on the
plans that the forward side of masts,
lower side of gaffs and bowsprit, and top
side of booms is a straight line. This is
done to better match the sail or position
mast hoops. All other faces are tapered.
To avoid confusion, identify the straight
side on each spar with a pencil mark at
both ends. Taper the dowel with a file.
Or, lightly slice it with a hobby blade or
small plane, then sand to its final shape.
Using a lathe or electric drill to taper
these dowels doesn’t work due to the
straight edge.
2. Building & Installing
the Masts
Fore and Mainmasts
: Both lower masts
are basically round, except for the flat
area by the trestle trees and cheeks. A
more pronounced taper occurs from the
trestle trees to the tenon at the cap
(Figure 6-1 ).
Fore and Main Topmast s: These are square
at the heel, then round above. Drill a
hole in the heel, then file it rectangular
to accept the fid (prevents mast from
falling through the top). A fid is a rec-
tangular bar (Figure 6-2).
24
Side Laser Cut Clamp
Use Temporary
Strut Until Interior
Structure is
Complete
Glue With
Super Glue
Laser-Cut Jig
Glue to a
Baseboard
Bottom
Fig. 5-13 Building a Dory
Stage 6