Model Shipways Bluenose, Инструкция по эксплуатации

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How to Work With the Plans & Parts
Before starting the model, carefully
examine the kit and study the plans.
First, determine if all the listed parts are
present. Handling them will produce a
better understanding of the kit’s
requirements. Try to visualize how every
piece will look on the completed model.
Also, determine ahead of time what
must be done first. The instructions will
help, but a thorough knowledge of the
plans at the outset is essential.
To avoid losing small fittings and hard-
ware, sort them into labeled boxes or
compartments. These should have lids
to keep out dirt.
1. The Plans
Six Plan Sheets are provided:
1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns
2. Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull
Construction
3. Hull Plan and Profiles
4. Hull and Spar Details
5. Rigging Profile
6. Rigging Details
Sketches throughout the manual illus-
trate various construction techniques.
The Bluenose kit is manufactured to a
scale of 3/16” = 1’0” (1:64). Each plan
sheet is drawn to that scale, except areas
enlarged to show detail. Most dimen-
sions can be lifted directly off the plans
by using draftsman dividers or a “tick”
strip (piece of paper such as an adding
machine roll). Lay the paper strip over
the plan, carefully mark the item’s
length with a sharp pencil, then transfer
the marks to the wood.
A 3/16” architect’s or 1:64 metric scale is a
handy tool. Measuring and cutting parts
using the scale gives a better feel for real
sizes. Because these are modelbuilders’
plans, actual measurements have been con-
verted to the nearest 1/64”. For example, a
7/64” block is 7” on the real ship, and a
1/8” block is 8”. A 3/16” architect’s or 1:64
metric scale is a handy tool. Measuring and
cutting parts using the scale gives a better
feel for real sizes.
Measurements are in inches, but Sheet 4
has a conversion table giving equiva-
lent real ship sizes in inches, decimals,
and millimeters.
2. Making Allowances
Along the Way
Try to be exact when following the
plans, but use common sense.
Adjustments may be necessary to com-
pensate for small differences in how
your model is shaping up; perhaps one
mast has too much rake (the angle at
which it sits). Lines should not drape
over fittings or conflict with other lines
when
belayed
(secured). If necessary,
move a belaying point or fairlead. Put
yourself on the ship, imagine perform-
ing the task, and use logic.
3. Understanding Hull Lines
Beginners may not be familiar with the
following hull lines. Buttock lines are
vertical longitudinal planes cutting
through the hull. Waterlines are horizon-
tal planes, and
sections
are transverse
vertical planes. Diagonals are planes cut
almost perpendicular to the station
lines. These lines define the hull’s shape
and are used by the draftsman to
fai
r it
(create even curves).
A complete set of hull lines is not need-
ed for this model, because laser-cut
bulkheads and center keel define the
hull. Sheet 2 shows the bulkheads. They
are similar to a ship’s body plan or sec-
tions, and illustrate how the hull curves
from top to bottom.
4. Using Basswood Lumber
Basswood comes in 1/32”, 3/64”,
1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32”, 3/16”, 1/4”,
and 1/2” thick sheets and strips. Strip
widths are in the same increments, while
sheets may be 1”, 2”, 3”, or 4” wide.
Note: Model Shipways occasionally
substitutes lime ( Tilia vulgaris ), a
European wood, for basswood (
Tilia
americana ). Both have a fine, uniform
texture and straight grain. Lime, howev-
er, has superior steam-bending qualities.
It is often called basswood in Europe.
Based on
Bluenose’s
3/16” = 1’0” scale,
1/64” equals 1” on the real ship, 1/32”
is 2”, and so on. Generally, basswood
strips or sheets can be used as is.
Occasionally, a strip must be thinner
than the supplied size. To maintain
scale, sand the strip to the required
thickness with a sanding block before
making the part.
Another way to reduce stock is with a
hobby sanding thickness planer (sold
commercially). Those who don’t own
one can chuck a sanding drum into their
drill press, clamp a block alongside the
drum to act as a fence, then insert the
strip between the drum and block. This
makeshift tool works quite well.
Sorting the wood in the kit by thickness
saves time. After selecting and cutting
what is needed, return the remaining
stock to the proper thickness pile. Don’t
worry about using a piece for one item
that was intended for another. Model
Shipways supplies enough extra wood to
complete the model before running out.
5. Britannia Metal Fittings
Before painting metal fittings, remove
any mold joint flash with a #11 hobby
blade, then file or sand smooth with
fine sandpaper. Clean parts in dish-
washing liquid and warm water to
remove traces of mold release agent and
any body oils your fingers have deposit-
ed. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry
completely before applying primer.
6. Soldering & Working
with Brass
Although paper strips are simpler to
make, mast bands, chain plates, and
other metal fittings should be fashioned
from brass strip. Follow this advice
when working with brass:
Cut brass sheets and strips with a small
pair of tin snips or heavy scissors.
Thicker brass will require a jeweler ’s
saw. After cutting, smooth the edges
with needle files followed by wet-or-dry
fine sandpaper used dry. Cutting slivers
from brass sheet curls and bends it side-
ways. To straighten, grip the ends with
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