Model Shipways Bluenose, Инструкция по эксплуатации

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Painting & Staining the Model
Beginning with directions on applying
finishes may seem strange, but it isn’t.
Much time and effort can be saved and
more professional results obtained if the
finishing process is carried out during
construction. Paint small parts, masts,
and spars before they are installed. The
painting sequence must be well thought
out; otherwise, assembly difficulties can
arise. For example, painting a cabin or
hatch coaming is easier if it isn’t glued
to the deck. Store parts in covered con-
tainers until needed. Proper timing
when applying finishes or using mask-
ing tape to define painted edges should
eliminate unsightly glue marks and
splotchy, stained surfaces. Take advan-
tage of these general suggestions:
1. Preliminaries
Sanding and cleaning : Rub down external
surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper, then
wipe off every speck of dust. Give
untreated surfaces two light coats of
primer. Sand very lightly after the last
application. Don’t sand down to bare
wood. After washing your hands, use a
soft brush and clean, soft rag or tack rag
to gently dust the hull. Use a hobby
spackling compound, such as Pic-n-
Patch or DAP, to fill any scratches and
defects, then sand and prime again.
Choosing paint
: Glossy surfaces are not
desirable on ship models. A flat finish or
one with a slight sheen is best, because
it doesn’t reflect daylight or artificial
lights. Consequently, details show up
better. However, the undercoat or
primer should be dead flat. A primer
gives the surface a little tooth and helps
top coats adhere better.
Any of these hobby paints are satisfac-
tory; Floquil, Polly-S, Testors, Humbrol,
and Model Masters. Jo Sonja artists’
paints (used by bird carvers) or Holbein
Acryla Gouache are also acceptable.
They are a combination acrylic-gouache.
Hobby paints have a variety of
reflectance levels. For example, Floquil’s
model railroad and military colors are
basically flat. Its marine paints,
designed to match original ship colors,
vary from gloss to flat and have a
reflectance reducer. When using a
mixed group of reflectance levels, finish
the completed model with a flat, clear
coat. It provides durability and seals
any decals or rub-on lettering.
Use either Floquil’s model railroad or
marine colors. Spraying on a coat of
reducer will blend the colors and sub-
due a gloss to almost flat. Because of
resins in the reducer, subsequent appli-
cations raise the reflectance level from
flat to about semi-gloss or satin finish.
Consequently, for nearly dead flat, use
one coat of reducer. For a little more
sheen, apply several coats. If you start
with flat paint and want some gloss,
finish with a crystal or high gloss coat.
Jo Sonja paints are dead flat. To finish,
use either a flat acrylic varnish for dura-
bility or a gloss varnish to increase
reflectance. Other manufacturers have
similar paint mixes and flat or gloss fin-
ish coats. Always read the manufactur-
er’s instructions.
Brush painting
: Painting with fine, soft
bristle brushes is probably best for the
beginner. Many skilled modelmakers
prefer the brushed-on technique,
because its subtle imperfections impart
a more lifelike appearance to the model.
Brushes must be soft and of the highest
quality. Artist grade sable or synthetics
are the best. Use wider brushes for
painting broad surfaces. If too narrow,
the bristles will cause excessive streaking.
When applying paint or stain with a
brush, lay down one thin coat in a single
stroke, then move to an adjacent area and
coat it with a single stroke. Never go back
over fresh paint. That will tear up the
surface. Wait until it has dried to a hard
finish before applying a second coat.
Spray Painting : Although slightly expen-
sive, a Paasche, Badger, Testors, Revell-
Monogram, or similar airbrush will pro-
duce a first-rate job and is worth the
investment. Airbrushes are either single
action (trigger controls only airflow) or
double action (trigger controls air and
paint) and easy to use. Spray patterns
can vary from thin to about 1/2” wide
by either adjusting the needle or
installing a different, sealed nozzle. In
some brands, paint travels through the
airbrush body to the needle. These
require disassembling to clean. Other
designs bypass the body and bring paint
directly to the nozzle. These clean by sim-
ply spraying solvent through them .
Paints are either water (acrylic) or sol-
vent based. Solvent-based paints spray
best. This includes Floquil’s lacquers
(thin about 25%) and Model Master’s
enamels. Polly-S and Model Master’s
acrylics are difficult to spray, and must
definitely be used with the manufactur-
er’s special thinner. Thinning water-
based paints with water creates surface
tension problems, resulting in poor cov-
erage and spray atomization.
Experiment with acrylics. Some model-
ers have success and others don’t.
When using solvent-based paints, work
outdoors or equip your shop with a
spray booth. These fumes are toxic.
Many brands of aerosol paints produce
good results. However, test them on
scrap wood before spraying the model.
Aerosols put out a lot more paint than
an airbrush, so be careful to avoid runs.
The Floquil paints spray very well when
thinned about 25%. You will find many
brands of paint available in aerosol cans
which can give quite good results. Test
them on a wood block as previously
described before using them on the
model.
Floquil, and other brands, has special
thinners for its various paint lines.
Follow each manufacturer’s recommen-
dations. Mixing brands is not a good
idea, because they may not be compati-
ble. Sometimes, however, no other
option exists. If so, apply each brand
separately and allow to thoroughly dry
before adding the next. Always test to
make sure the final flat or gloss clear coat
is compatible with the paint it covers.
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