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Glue the balsa reinforcement plate

F2L

to the inner side of the F3L fuse-

lage left side (with the large opening for the

F11

hatch); glue the plate

F2R

to the inner side of the

F3R

fuselage right side (without the hatch

opening).

(Fig. 3)

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Glue the

F14

locking plate to the front of the

F11

hatch; the locking plate

has to match the position of a notch in the

F2L

reinforcement plate and

the hatch matches the opening in the

F3L

fuselage side. The pair of

F15

magnets will be epoxied into the

F11

hatch and

F2L

plate only after the

fuselage is covered – otherwise the high temperature of your sealing iron
might de-magnetize the magnets.

(Fig. 22)

◊

Epoxy the M4 aluminium captive nut into the

fuselage brace. Do not

forget bevelling the edges of the fuselage formers and braces where
required.

◊

Epoxy the fuselage formers and braces

F10

first into one fuse-

lage side from the rear to the nose and then attach the other side. Put the
fuselage straight bottom side onto the building plan protected by a sheet
of thin clear plastic film and check the fuselage is true and straight - pin
down as necessary until the glue sets.

(Fig. 5)

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Epoxy the

former in place and bevelled

nose balsa block as well as

the

F17

and

F18

cross braces.

◊

Epoxy the tow hook plate

in place.

(Fig. 6)

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Partially cut (ca 0.5-1 mm deep) and crack the fuselage sides along the

F10

fuselage former (the cut line is to be soaked with thin CA before the

final sanding). Slide the tail boom tube

onto the openings in

and

F10

formers – do not glue yet.

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Slide the

F21

liteply tail boom fairing ring onto the tail boom

; tack glue

the fuselage sides to the ring (be sure not to glue the tail boom yet). Glue
the top and bottom balsa plates

F20

and

F19

in place.

(Fig. 7)

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Glue the three piece upper

F13a

F13b

F13C

and

F16

lower 2.5 mm balsa

sheeting to the fuselage.

◊

Sand the entire fuselage (with the

F11

hatch in place) so the tail end inc-

luding the

F21

ring fits smoothly the tail boom.

Wing

◊

The wing is to be built directly on the building plan protected by a sheet of
thin clear plastic film.

The wing ribs and riblets are supplied with jig

tabs on the bottom side

to allow building the wing with undercambe-

red profile on a flat surface; in the same time producing the washout (the
wing trailing edge is higher by 3 mm at the tips than at the root) necessa-
ry for stable flight of the model.

DO NOT CUT the mounting jigs; they

will be removed only after the entire wing has been built.

There

is also the rib spacing jig to set the leading edge ends of rib and riblet
mounting jigs correctly.

(Fig. 1 + 9 + 10)

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Epoxy together the wing central ribs

and

; insert 3 mm beech

dowels into the holes in order to obtain correct match. Note: Make a left
and right pair of assemblies.

◊

Glue together the wing tip

W28

with the plywood reinforcement plate

W40

to the trailing edge

W30

on a flat working surface; glue the W26 and

W27

reinforcement plates in place creating a notch for the plywood wing

tip spar

W29

(Fig. 11 + 12)

◊

Thread all the wing ribs and riblets

W24

onto the main spar carbon

tube

W35

; use a round file to trim the openings in the ribs to set the ribs

in the required angle.

(Fig. 10)

◊

Put the main spar with ribs onto the building plan and insert the ends
of ribs into the corresponding notches in the trailing edge

W30

. Insert

the front ends of the rib jig tabs into the corresponding notches of the
rib spacing jig. Align all the parts to the correct position over the building
plan; pin down where necessary and then glue the ribs

W23

to the

main spar tube and the trailing edge. Epoxy the wing tip spar W29 into
the main spar tube and to the wing tip into the notch between the W26
and

W27

reinforcement plates. Glue the wing tip to the W24 rib and fina-

lly the

W24

rib to the main spar and trailing edge. Glue the balsa gusset

W25

between the

W24

rib and

W23

riblet.

◊

Glue the root rib

using the root rib dihedral jig in place.

(Fig. 13)

◊

Trim the notches for the leading edge

W36

(3 mm beech dowel) in the

ribs and riblets as necessary. Glue the leading edge (starting from the
wing tip and then rib by rib towards the wing root).

(Fig. 14

)

◊

Epoxy the plywood wing joiner bay plates

W33

into the

and

W4/W5

ribs - be sure the bay will accommodate the W34 wing joiner nicely.

(Fig. 15)

◊

Now you can carefully cut the rib jig tabs using a sharp modeller’s knife.
Sand the bottom side of all ribs and riblets to shape with No. 120 sand
paper.

◊

Glue the bottom wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting

W39

and

W40

place; glue the plywood reinforcement plate

W41

on the top of

W40

along the area of the wing fixing bolt.

(Fig. 16)

◊

Glue the top wing centre 1.5 mm balsa sheeting

W37

and

W38

in place.

Sand the wing root flush with the

rib - the slanted position set with

the root rib dihedral jig ensures the correct wing dihedral.

◊

Assemble the other wing half in the same way.

◊

Sand both two wing halves with No. 120 sand paper. Trial fit - no glue yet
- the wing halves and the

W34

wing joiner; insert the riblets

and

between the root ribs. Once satisfied with the fit, epoxy the W34 wing
joiner,

and

riblets to one wing half. Then slide on and epoxy the

other half. Double check the correct wing halves alignment and let the
epoxy set.

(Fig 17 + 23 + 24)

◊

Epoxy the wing bolt plate

W32

to the top of the wing centre; once the

glue has cured drill 4.2 mm hole for the wing bolt through the

W32

◊

Now it is the time to decide which tip of the wing the discus launch pin
is to be glued into - the left tip for a right-handed pilot, the right tip for a
left-handed pilot. Laminate a strip of the fibreglass cloth around the hole
for the discus launch pin on top and bottom of the wing tip. You can use
a special low-viscosity laminating/finishing epoxy or you can use regular
epoxy glue thinned slightly by an epoxy paint/dope thinner. Once the
resin has cured, sand the entire wing smooth with No. 180 sand paper.

Covering

◊

Thoroughly sand the surface of all parts with No. 360-400 sandpaper and
carefully vacuum all the dust (the iron-on film does not stick well to a
dusty surface; the dust also contains hard grains released off the sand-
paper capable to ruin the smooth coating of your sealing iron quickly).

◊

Use as light iron-on film as you can get (transparent Oracover, Oralite etc.
– not supplied in the kit). Follow the instruction manual supplied with
the covering film of your choice please.

Final Assembly

Hinging the Control Surfaces

◊

Use strips of a high quality hinging tape (available in hobby shops) or stri-
ps of the same iron-on film you used for the covering. Remember to apply
the tape with the control surface deflected to the limit in order to get free
movement of the particular control surface.

(Fig. 19)

Fuselage and Tail

◊

Using a very sharp pointed modeller’s knife, cut the covering film over the
opening for the tailplane pylon in the horizontal stabilizer, over slots for
the Kevlar® thread in the fin and over control horn slots in the elevator
and rudder.

◊

Insert the tailplane pylon

F22

into the

tail boom - no glue yet. Insert