J/Boats J/111, Руководство пользователя

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J/111 OWNER MANUAL 60
3) A growing trend amongst active one-design racers is to use a dehumidifier to keep the inside of
the boat dry. This extra step not only keeps the boat a little lighter, but helps everything from
wiring, to woodwork, to sails, last longer.
RIGGING
1) Standing rigging - The general rule of thumb from Hall Spars is that standing rigging (whether
wire or rod) should be replaced every 10 years, unless excess strain due to hard ocean sailing
shortens this life. Fatigue can be in any form- sailing in extreme wind conditions, unnecessary
flogging of loose leeward shrouds, corrosive environment. Any signs of a broken wire strand(s)
indicate immediate replacement is necessary. Otherwise keep a close look out for corrosion or
cracking in the swage fittings and turnbuckle threads. In southern coastal areas, with the high
salinity and year round warm weather, rigging must sometimes be replaced every 5 years.
Fresh water sailed boats will generally have a longer rigging life, but are still subject to fatiguing
after years of stress.
2)
Headstay - The top of the headstay (wire or rod) should be checked to make sure it’s not bent.
The fasteners and the top of the headstay foil should also be routinely checked.
3) Clevis pins - More rigging and spar mishaps are caused by clevis pins backing out, than
perhaps any other culprit. If the clevis pins are semi-permanent (only removed a few times per
year), then use appropriate sized cotter pin and fully bend them back around the clevis pin.
Then cover with clear sealant rather than tape so that they are visible.
4) Running rigging - suffers the greatest wear and tear (chafing primarily) and should be checked
frequently for wear, particularly high load lines like main and jib halyards and jib sheets.
SPARS
1) Spar life can vary, but Hall’s general rule is the mast should be replaced every 20 years.
Frequently check your spar for problems. Spars break more often than not by a failure in the
standing rigging, but there are some specific areas to keep an eye out for:
2) Deck area - The mast section at the partners (where the mast passes through the deck) is
usually subject to the most fatigue over time. This is due to the rig getting set up with pre-bend,
then pulling on lots of backstay tension, and the constant flexing of the spar over many years.
The best prevention is a good set of mast wedges or the Spartite mast wedge system.
Unchecked movement at the deck can significantly shorten the life of the spar. Be especially
careful about drilling any holes in the mast near the deck, and periodically inspect any holes in
the area to make sure, there are no cracks developing. Any holes must be round or have
rounded corners.
3) Spreader tips - these should be untaped and inspected annually. Seizing wire should be
redone annually so that the shrouds will never “pop” out of the spreader tip. Use spreader chafe
covers that won’t collect water.
4)
Rig tuning - to provide not only the best performance but also a longer mast life, it’s very
important to properly “tune the mast.” Tuning means adjusting the shroud tension so that the top
of the mast is centered over the boat, and such that the mast is in column or straight as you site
up the mast groove on the aft side. Proper tuning for all conditions usually means maintaining
enough tension on the shrouds so that they do not go completely slack on the leeward side while
sailing. Many successful one-design classes have tuning guides published and provided by