Loops on Rudder Pins
We’ve seen that the stainless ring dings at the top of each rudder pin
can sometimes get caught and distorted when in use. We recommend
replacing the upper cotter rings with small loops of line. The line loops
are also easier to pull to remove the pins. As an extra safety measure, a
line can be run between the loops to tie the pins together.
Backstay Lengths
The Dyneema backstays, while super strong (stronger than wire for
their weight), have a lot of initial creep in them. If at first the backstay
bridle seems too short, we suggest tightly lashing the bottom leg to the
lower shackle/chainplate and then leaving some adjustable backstay
tension on. If you come back an hour later and release, chances are that
half the gap will be gone; and if you do the same over a few days, it
will likely be very close. If the backstay bridle ends up a bit too long, it
can be shortened at the dead end with a bowline.
Mast Holder for Raising and Lowering the Mast
It is VERY important, when raising and lowering the mast, not to allow the mast to be down too far
(nearly horizontal) when the mast base hinge pin is through the stainless loop on the mast plate. A
simple way to hold the mast at an acceptable minimum angle is to use
a mast holder consisting of a board with a roller mounted at the top.
The board can be slid through a bracket on the aft crossbar used for
trailering, and clamped to the engine bracket at the deck. The roller on
the top makes it easier to move the mast aft before stepping it, and
forward after unstepping it.
