Ice TRICE 'Q', Пошаговая инструкция по сборке и руководство пользователя

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6.8 Tyres, tubes, & wheels
Tyres
Quality tyres are vital for good traction and control while accelerating, turning and braking. Each brand of tyre
has it own individual mix of puncture protection, rolling resistance, pressure rating, and durability. Finding the
one that suits your riding style best is the challenge. Tyres should always be inflated according the range marked
on the sidewall, never above the maximum recommended, and they should be checked regularly. Worn tyres
should be replaced. Trikes often run with slightly reduced pressure, as the load is distributed across 3 tyres, not
2. Lower pressure results in a more comfortable ride, but at the expense of higher rolling resistance. Balloon
tyres are now available that combine relatively low rolling resistance, puncture protection, and a smooth ride;
they are well worth considering. Your Trice has been designed to allow these larger tyres to be fitted.
Appendix C has a conversion table for pressure in PSI and Bar.
Tubes & Punctures
Always use good quality inner tubes on your trike. It is easiest to carry a spare inner tube with you, and change
it if you should be unlucky enough to have a puncture. Front punctures are fairly easy to mend, as the tyre can
be removed without taking the wheel off the bike. You may find it easier to work on the front wheel if you put
the trike on its side first. Repairing a rear wheel puncture is no different from any other cycle.
Spokes
Occasionally check for loose spokes. Broken spokes are caused by spokes loosening up, and then undergoing
stress every time they take a load. If you notice loose (or broken) spokes, or an untrue wheel, take your bike to
your local bike shop to have the wheels re-trued. One loose spoke puts an unfair load on the spokes next to it,
and one broken spoke is usually followed by another.
6.9 Suspension
The suspension on the TRICE trikes runs on plain bearings. These bearings are made from a copper-plated steel
shell, coated with a sintered bronze layer filled with a mixture of PTFE and other friction-reducing additives.
They do not normally require lubrication or maintenance. If you should notice any significant amount of play in
the suspension joint, the bearings can be easily replaced. To do this:
•
Undo the 2 pivot pin clamp bolts under the suspension mount.
•
Slide the pivot pin out of the bearings. If it is reluctant to slide, tap gently using a hammer and a small
block of wood to move the pin.
•
Using the hammer and small block of wood, gently remove the suspension bearings. There are three
separate bearings to be removed; note the order they came out in.
•
Gently push or tap the new bearings into place. Be careful not to damage the Teflon coating on the
bearings.
•
Press the pivot pin back into place, and tighten the 2 pivot pin clamp bolts.
6.10 Adjusting the tracking
To avoid excessive tyre wear the front wheels must be kept parallel. Tracking only needs to be checked if you
suspect damage through an accident, if unusual wear starts on one or both front wheels, or the feel of the
steering changes. Before adjusting the tracking, check to make sure the track rods are not bent and the ball
joints are in good condition.
Use a long ruler or a piece of rod to measure between the inside of the tyres at the front of the tyres, and then at
the rear, all measured at axle height. The distance (between the arrows) should be the same, or up to 2mm less
at the front (toed-in).
If the tracking is out of adjustment, loosen the two lock nuts on one track rod, and rotate the rod (a small
rotation gives a fairly large change in track). Tighten up the lock nuts when the distance is correct.
TIP - note that the lock nuts at each end of the track rods have left and
right handed threads (the left hand threaded nuts have a small notch
to identify them). This allows the track to be adjusted very precisely