Overcast
Overcast fabric edges to prevent fraying and to help them lay
flat. It is easier to overcast before the garment is sewn
together. Presser foot J is recommended for light and
medium weight fabric to prevent puckering along the edge.
Presser foot B is used for heavy weight fabric.
Fabric:
Woven light/medium.
Select:
Three-step zigzag stitch number 4
Use:
Presser foot J and size 80 needle.
Set:
Thread tension 3–5, stitch length 4.5, stitch width 5.0
and presser foot pressure N.
Place the edge of a single thickness of fabric under presser
foot J with the wire guide along the edge of the fabric. The
three-step zigzag stitch sews over the wire guide to keep the
edge of the fabric flat.
Sew:
• Lower the presser foot.
• Sew to overcast the edge of the fabric.
• Raise the presser foot and cut the threads to remove your
project.
Seam and Overcast
Woven medium and seam/
overcast
Woven heavy and seam/overcast
The seam/overcast stitch sews the seam and overcasts the
edges all at one time. There are a number of different seam/
overcast stitches on your machine. Refer to the sewing guide
to select the best stitch for your fabric.
Fabric:
Stretch medium, cut in two.
Select:
Stitch number 8.
Use:
Presser foot B and size 75 stretch needle.
Set:
Thread tension 4–5, stitch length 3.0, stitch width 5.0
and presser foot pressure 2.
Sew:
• Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the fabric in
position under the presser foot to seam along the edge of
the fabric.
• Lower the presser foot.
• Seam/overcast along the edge.
• Raise the presser foot and cut the threads to remove your
project.
Repeat the Seam/Overcast technique on stretch heavy fabric
and on woven heavy fabric. Refer to the sewing guide to
select the best stitch, stitch length, stitch width and thread
tension for each fabric type.
3 Sewing
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