Basic Sewing Techniques
Seam
Straight stitch
A seam sews two pieces of fabric together with a seam
allowance that will usually be pressed open. In most cases,
edges of the seam allowance are finished with an overcast
stitch before sewing the seam. Seams in stretch fabric must
stretch with the fabric. The stretch stitch makes a stretchy
seam that is suitable for sewing together pieces of light
stretch fabric.
Fabric:
Woven light/medium, cut in two.
Select:
Straight stitch number 1.
Use:
Presser foot A and size 80 needle.
Set:
Thread tension 4–6, stitch length 2.5, needle position 0.0
and presser foot pressure N.
Sew:
• Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the fabric in
position under the presser foot. Line up the edge with the
⅝″ (15 mm) seam guide.
• Lower the presser foot.
• Sew a seam.
• Raise the presser foot and cut the threads to remove your
project.
Tip: Straight stitch can also be used for topstitching. For a more visible
topstitch, lengthen the stitch and use heavier thread with a larger size
needle.
Stretch stitch
Fabric:
Stretch light, cut in two.
Select:
Stretch stitch number 2.
Use:
Presser foot A and size 75 stretch needle.
Set:
Thread tension 4–5, stitch length 2.5, needle position 3.5
and presser foot pressure 2.
Sew:
• Place fabric pieces right sides together. Put the fabric in
position under the presser foot. Line up the edge with the
⅜″ (10 mm) seam guide for a ⅝″ seam.
• Lower the presser foot.
• Sew a seam.
• Raise the presser foot and cut the threads to remove your
project.
30
3 Sewing
