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the brace socket of the right-hand wing.
Now slide the two wing panels together and ensure that the root ribs meet snugly, without gaps. Check that
the wings are not twisted relative to each other. Wipe off excess epoxy on a piece of kitchen paper
Tape the panels together, and allow the epoxy to cure.
It is essential that the two wing panels should be joined with positive dihedral, i.e. when one panel is
resting flat on the building board, the other tip should be about 30 mm above the surface.
The strip of white self-adhesive plastic can now be applied over the joint line.
Installing the aileron servo
Press the rubber grommets (supplied with the servo) into the servo mounting lugs. Push the brass tubular
rivets into the rubber grommets from the underside, so that the flange is at the bottom. You may find it easier
to insert the tubular rivets if you fit them on a small screwdriver first.
Lay the aileron servo plate on the wing in the correct position, and draw round it lightly using a soft pencil.
Melt the film along the marked line using a hot soldering iron, then carefully peel the film away from the
wood.
Sand the wing flat over the exposed area using a sanding block, then glue the aileron servo plate to the wing
using UHU Holz D3 glue.
When the glue has set hard, place the aileron servo in the opening and drill 1.5 mm Ø pilot-holes for the
retaining screws.
Fix the servo to the plate using the screws supplied with the servo.
Screw a plastic clevis onto the threaded end of each aileron pushrod. The end of the rod should be visible
between the jaws of the clevis, as shown in the photo.
Cut down the servo output device as shown, drill out the linkage holes using a 2 mm Ø bit, and mount the
pushrod connectors using self-locking nuts. Set the aileron servo to neutral from the transmitter, then mount
the output lever on the servo.
Locate the aileron torque rods (projecting from the wings), and screw the lugs onto the threaded ends until
about 3 mm of rod shows at the top; this should give a horn length of about 20 mm. Connect the clevises to
the torque rod lugs and snap them shut. Push rings of silicone fuel tubing along the pushrods and over the
clevises to secure them. Cut the pushrods to length, slip the plain ends through the pushrod connectors, and
fit the M3 grubscrews. Tighten the M3 grubscrews lightly, then set the ailerons exactly to neutral (in line with
the wing airfoil) before tightening the grubscrews fully. Secure each with a drop of thread-lock fluid. Ensure
that the servo output lever is parallel to the wing trailing edge.
Gluing the tailplane and fin to the fuselage
Use a soldering iron to remove the covering film over the slots for the fin and tailplane at the tail end of the
fuselage.
This is done by locating the slots with your fingertips, pushing the tip of the soldering iron through and
running it along the edge of the slots until all the film has been melted away.
Slide the tailplane and fin into their slots. Adjust the position of the tailplane until it projects by exactly the
same length on both sides, and is at right-angles to the fuselage centreline when viewed from above. Now
mark the outside shape of the fuselage on the tail panels using a felt-tip pen.
Melt the covering film along the marked lines by running a soldering iron lightly along a steel ruler. Keep
slightly inside the lines, and peel the film away from the wood.
Fit the tail panels in the fuselage slots again, align them carefully and glue them in place. We recommend
UHU Holz D3 glue for this. Align the parts carefully as described earlier: the fin must be at right-angles to the
tailplane. This can be checked using a setsquare. Use pins to hold the parts in place while the glue is drying.
Fitting the control surface horns
The horns should be screwed to the control surfaces in such a position that the linkage hole for the clevis is
exactly in line with the hinge pivot axis, i.e. at right-angles to it. Drill holes for the retaining screws through the
