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CLEANING
GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT DETERGENTS
Detergents for residential use, as well as general detergents for
commercial use, are rarely corrosive. However, they may irritate
the skin if they have a higher or lower pH value. Lukewarm water
is for regular cleaning. Gloves should be used for prolonged
contact with concentrated products or solutions, as the cleaning
agents can dry out the skin. Be careful with inhalation of
aerosols (shower / spray bottle) as these may irritate the mucous
membranes.
GOOD ADVICE
Always apply the detergent at the location requiring the most
cleaning first and wipe these areas last so that the detergent will
have the longest time to act before drying out.
•
Daily / weekly cleaning
Alkaline - neutral detergent with pH value 7-10 and lukewarm
water.
•
Less frequent cleaning
Against deposits, lime and rust, use an acidic detergent with a pH
of 1-5 and cold water. A viscous detergent that remains on vertical
surfaces can also be used.
•
Residues of soap and grime
Use an acidic detergent with a pH of 3-5 or use cleaning spray and
husehold products. Use bleach and vinegar only locally. For more
information about cleaning products visit fleurco.com
•
Stain / Problem Spots
Spray products and liquid scouring creams are suitable for stain
removal. The spray products are best suited because they do
not contain water-soluble minerals. Those that contain abrasives
must be rinsed or wiped off properly. Microfibre cloths with polar
solvents can also be used. In difficult spots, allow detergent to
act, work area with a washing pad, cloth, or similar. Melamine
sponges together with dishwasher soap can be used on stains on
structures such as GEM, C and STN.
Do not use non-diluted bleach. when using diluted bleach please
rinse off with water after max 20-30 minutes.
•
Aluminium Profiles
There should be no corrosion as long as the pH of the detergent
is above 4 or below 9. If chlorine is used on the profiles and rinsed
clean afterwards, it should also work well. Alkaline cleaners
should be used with caution. There are mild alkaline cleaners
designed for cleaning aluminum.
•
Sealant
Soap and skin residue should be removed from the sealant
frequently to avoid fungi growth. If the sealant is damaged, it must
be replaced according to the technical datasheet of the sealant.
Use a 50-50 chlorine/bleach and water mix to treat yellowing. Let
the solution sit on the sealant for a maximum of 30 minutes then
rinse thoroughly so that no remains of chlorine/bleach is left on
the sealant.
NOT DOING SO COULD VOID YOUR WARRANTY.
The common thing for all detergents is that one must follow the
instructions carefully.
Over time the sealant may become brittle or damaged or partly
peel away and therefore should be inspected routinely. As the
sealant degrades it will become more susceptible to mold growth.
The sealant should also be cleaned regularly with the panels to
prevent mold growth - particularly the bead of sealant at the base
of the panels where water is most likely to pool. If the mold cannot
be removed by cleaning and becomes impregnated into the
sealant, then the sealant may need to be replaced.
If the sealant is damaged or breaks free from the panel surface,
then it must be treated immediately. Replacing the sealant will
take a bit of time and effort.
MAINTENANCE
•
Replacing Sealant
1. Wash the area including the panels adjoining the sealant to
clean off any grime and soap scum. This is an important initial
step as it is best not to clean the panel after the sealant has
been removed and the panel is exposed. Allow the area to dry
completely.
2. There are a number of products that will loosen sealant
including Soudal Sealant Remover or WD-40®. Whilst not
essential, these will help loosen the sealant from the surfaces
to which it is attached.
3.
Slide a knife or razor down the length of the caulk seam
on one side of the bead. Hold the tool so the blade doesn’t
cut into the panel or the floor, but cuts it at the base. The aim
is to cut the sealant loose on the first edge, without cutting
through the entire bead or down into the joint.
4.
Switch to the opposite side of the sealant bead and repeat
the process, slicing through a point very close to where the
sealant bonds to the tile. Avoid cutting so deeply that sealant
bead is completely removed. Using just the tip of the knife on
each side of the bead is enough.
5. Grab a loose edge of the sealant bead and peel it up and
away from the floor. This should draw out the sealant that
filled the joint as well, not just the visible portion of the
sealant bead. Use a plastic scraper to remove any remaining
traces.
6.
Wipe the area where the sealant was present clean and
apply new sealant.
•
Chips and Scratches
Small chips and scratches can be repaired by using a laminate
repair kit such as ‘Unika Colorfill’; generally available on-line.
Alternatively, a hard setting epoxy filler with an enamel paint can
be used. Use a spatula to press filler into the chipped area and
wipe away any excess. Once the filler has dried, paint over the
filler; if the paint comes in a spray can, spray a small amount of
paint into the lid of the can then use a fine brush to apply.
Matching colors may be difficult. It is possible with some repair
products to mix colors to create a broader spectrum. Note, that
in most cases, small scratches and chips should not affect the
waterproofing properties of the panel. If unsure whether the
waterproofing of the panel is affected, ensure the affected area
remains dry or, if that is not possible, cover the damage with a
temporary sealant until it can be properly assessed and repaired.
•
Aluminum Profiles
These are either powder coated or anodized and should remain
free of any corrosion with normal usage. Aluminum is susceptible
to corrode or become pitted if exposed to either low pH (acidic
below pH 4) or high pH (alkaline over pH 9). Strong acidic or
MAINTENANCE / ENTRETIEN
