English
47
Material up to 3-5/8" (91 mm) can be cut as
FIG. 18
described above. For boards [up to 6-3/4"
(173 mm)] several minor concessions must be
made:
When cutting a board between 3-5/8" (91
mm) and 6-3/4" (173 mm), the roller on the tip
of the guard will hang up on the workpiece.
If this occurs, simply place your right thumb
on the upper side of the guard and roll the
guard up just enough to clear the workpiece,
as shown in Figure 18. Once you have cleared
the workpiece, you can release the guard and
it will continue to open as the cut progresses.
When mitering to the right side of a base
molding 3-5/8" (91 mm) standing vertically
against the fence as in Figure 17, the saw can
only cut through the board up to 1" (25.4 mm)
from the end of the board. Trying to cut more
than an inch will cause the saw’s gear case to
interfere with the workpiece. If you want to cut
base molding between 3-5/8" (91 mm) and
6-3/4" (173 mm) vertically follow the directions
on this page.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1" (25.4 mm) THICK BY 3-5/8" – 6-3/4" (91 X
173 mm) WIDE 1" (25.4 mm) VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE
• Position molding as shown in Figure 17
• All cuts made with the back of the molding against the fence
INSIDE CORNER:
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
Left side *
1. Position molding with bottom of molding
against the base of the saw
1. Position molding with bottom of
molding against the base of the saw
2.
Miter left 45°
2. Miter right 45°
3. Save left side of cut
3. Save left side of cut
Right side
Right side
1. Position molding with top of the molding
resting on the base of the saw
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the base of the saw
2. Miter left 45°
2. Miter left 45°
3. Save the right side of cut
3. Save the right side of cut
* NOTE:
If the cut must be made somewhere other than 1" from the end of the molding:
cut off the molding at 90° approx. 1" (25.4 mm) longer than your final length then make
the miter cut as described above.
CUTTING BASE MOLDING UP TO 1.8" (45 mm) THICK BY UP TO 7-11/16"
(195.6 mm) WIDE LAYING FLAT AND USING THE BEVEL FEATURE
• All cuts made with the saw set at 45° bevel and 0 miter.
• All cuts made with back of molding laying flat on the saw as shown in Figure 19.
FIG. 19
INSIDE CORNER:
OUTSIDE CORNER:
Left side
Left side
1. Position molding with top of molding
against the fence
1. Position molding with bottom of
the molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
2. Save right side of cut
Right side
Right side
1. Position molding with bottom of the
molding against the fence
1. Position molding with top of
molding against the fence
2. Save left side of cut
2. Save right side of cut
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
Your miter saw is better suited to the task of cutting crown molding than any tool made.
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added
together, equal exactly 90°. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section
that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against
the wall) of 38°.
Your miter saw has special pre-set miter latch points at 31.62° left for cutting crown molding
at the proper angle and bevel stop pawl at 33.85° left. There is also a mark on the bevel scale
at 33.85°.
The
Bevel Setting/Type of Cut
chart gives the proper settings for cutting crown molding.
(The numbers for the miter and bevel settings are very precise and are not easy to accurately
set on your saw.) Since most rooms do not have angles of precisely 90°, you will have to fine
tune your settings anyway.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
