53
Practical Stitches – Applications
Sewing Knit Fabrics
Start With a New Needle
•
blunt needles can damage knits
Use a Stretch Needle (130/705 H-S)
if Necessary
•
the needle point slides easily between the fibers
Use a Fine Sewing Thread
•
coarse threads can damage knits and cause
holes when the garment is washed
When Basting, Use a Darning Thread
•
very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is
easier to remove once the seam is complete
Important Notes:
Seam Becomes Wavy
oversew a thread along the edge
after sewing adjust edges by pulling the thread
to regain the original length of the fabric and
press seam flat
Edges Roll
do not sew right on the edge but about 5mm in
from the edge
cut off allowance after finished sewing
Seams Which Pull or Stretch
reinforce seams with a ribbon (e.g. shoulder
ribbon) before sewing
different ribbons are available which can stretch
more or less. These can be sewn to give more
security to the seam
Sew a Test if Necessary
•
the elasticity of today’s knit fabrics varies greatly
adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam
should be as elastic as the fabric
for greater elasticity use a shorter stitch length
and/or stitch width (only one of these
adjustments may be necessary)
Presser Foot Pressure
•
soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat
•
the sewing computer must still feed the fabric
properly
Possible Problems With Sewing Knits
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