18
Stitch Samples and Needle Chart
Stitch Samples
1
Set stitch length regulator to
desired stitch length.
2
Make sure approximately 15
cm (approx. 6 inches) of upper
thread is pulled under the
presser foot and toward the rear
of the machine. While needle is
in raised position, insert a test
strip from the garment fabric
under the foot.
3
Lower presser foot.
4
Turn the handwheel toward you
to lower the needle through the
fabric, then press gently on the
foot controller to begin.
5
Turn the handwheel toward you
to raise the needle and thread
take-up lever to their highest
positions.
6
Raise the presser foot and remove
fabric. Manually cut the thread
with the thread trimmer located
on the left side of the machine, or
with a pair of scissors.
✽
When using thread cutter:
5
Press the thread cutter button
while the presser foot lever is in
the down position.
6
Raise presser foot and remove
fabric.
Thread Tension
✽
Bobbin thread should feed smoothly. Adjust bobbin thread
to match that of upper thread. (If bobbin thread is too tight
it may cause fabric to bunch up.)
to increase
bobbin
tension
to reduce
needle
thread
tension
to increase
needle
thread
tension
Fabric
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
to reduce
bobbin
tension
Correct thread tension
Incorrect thread tension can lead
to such undesirable results as
messy stitches, puckered seams
and thread breakage.
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
Right side of Fabric
Upper
Thread
Lower
Thread
Right side of Fabric
Wrong side of fabric
Bobbin tension . . .
Proper
When it is week
Bobbin tension . . .
Proper
When it is strong
Wrong side of fabric
Adjust the upper thread to match the bobbin thread.
●
Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
✽
The following chart applies to many different fabric, thread and needle combinations.
✽
HLX5 needles are recommended; however, Schmetz 130/705H needles may also be used under normal
sewing conditions.
✽
Adjust the pressure adjustment dial and the feed dog adjustment knob according to the chart on the
sewing machine.
✽
When sewing on knit fabrics such as jersey or tricot, use a ballpoint needle or a needle designed for use
with knit fabrics.
✽
For best results when using metallic threads, sew with a good quality thread, set upper tension on 2, and
use metallic needle.
Fabric - Thread - Needles
Cloth
Thread
Needle (HLX5)
Specialty
fabrics
Velvet
Silk, Polyester #30 – #50
#11 – #14
Quilt
Polyester #20 – #50
#11 – #16
Synthetic Suede
Polyester #20 – #50
Knit
Polyester #20 – #50
Coating
Polyester #50
#11 – #14
Light
weight
fabrics
Lawn
Cotton #80
#9
Tricot
Polyester #60
Silk Georgette
Silk #50
Wool Georgette
Silk, Polyester #50
#11
Medium
weight
fabrics
Gingham
Cotton #60 – #80
#11 – #14
Lightweight Jersey
Polyester #60
#11
Gabardine, Flannel
Silk #50
Heavy
weight
fabrics
Denim
Cotton #20 – #50
#14 – #18
Jersey
Polyester #20 – #50
#11 – #16
Tweed
Silk #20 – #50
HLX5
Schmetz
130/705H
#9
#65
#11
#75
#14
#90
#16
#100
#18
#110
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