looks right, glue on the guns. If not, trim or shim the mount as required. Next construct
the chutes as shown from the C1, C2 and C3 parts. These are then sheeted using 3/32”
balsa. Paint the guns and chutes to suit and then install them. Let’s next make the top
access panels. I began by cutting a cardboard template that extended over the sheeting on
both sides by about 1/8”. Next notch this template to clear the cabane struts. The front
panel should extend about ¼” past the rear of the shell chutes. Once this is trimmed to fit
around the guns and chutes and has been trial fit set it aside. Next trim small rectangles to
cover from behind the shell chutes back to the cockpit. These also need a slot for the rear
cabane struts and you will need to cut a hole to fit the torque rod for the upper wing’s
ailerons. Trial fit this to both sides. If required, make separate right and left side
templates. Finally cut the small rectangle which fits between the guns back to the cockpit.
Now, cut all of these pieces out of litho plate or prime and paint the cardboard. I installed
mine with #0 screws. Finally cut out the side access hatches from some aluminum (I used
roof flashing). These should be formed to the contour of the fuselage. Mine opened on the
left-hand side of the fuselage to provide access to the Dubro remote fueler and the engine
kill switch. These were hinged with ground down hinge points.
Scoops and Louvers:
One of the features of the Siemens Schuckert D-III which gives it it’s character, are its air
intake scoop and the louvered panel which exhausted hot air out the bottom. I chose to
make these from aluminum and this was the first time I attempted to do this. The
following techniques were developed through much trial and error and should allow you
to duplicate these parts without too much fuss. Get a piece of 2 x 4 and cut off a piece
about 4” long. Sketch out the scoop top view on the block, and extend the front out about
½”, but be sure to mark where the scoop ends. Next drill a 3/8” hole through the block at
the tail end and at the extended front corners. Cut out the shape of the scoop using either
a jigsaw or a hacksaw blade. Take a piece of litho plate which is about ½” longer and 1-
1/2” wider than the scoop and lay it over the cutout and line up the piece at the marks you
made where the scoop ends. Sand a slight radius onto the end of a 6” piece of 3/8” hard
wood dowel. Begin rubbing this in small circles and back and forth while applying a
downward force beginning at the pointed end of the scoop while holding the litho in the
correct position. You will note that the litho will start to stretch and form. Start moving
forward evenly till you reach the edge of the sheet, you now have a scoop! After a couple
of trys, this will become simple. Once you have two scoops which you are happy with, it
is time to attempt the louvered panel. Begin by cutting off another foot from your piece of
2 x 4. Set it on edge and trace the outline of the front of the fuselage on it (radius) for 6”
beginning at one end. Cut this out and mark a line down the center of the piece. Centered
in your cutout, lay out the 1/2” x 3-1/8” scoop dimension. Drill through at the appropriate
point using a 1/2” diameter drill, and cut out the rest so that you have a slot 1/2” wide
with a radius at each end. I would recommend trying a sample before tackling the entire
panel. Cut a piece of the litho which is slightly larger than the groove and start rubbing
with your dowel till it is about 3/16” deep. You will also notice that the surrounding
material is now the same diameter as the fuselage. Carefully score the peak of the hump
and trim it back around the base. You have now made a louver! Remember when making
the panel that the louvers face backwards. Cut a piece of litho which covers the front nose
section extending about 1/8” up past where the landing gear mounts, back to the edge of
the wing opening on both sides (About xxx x yyy). Lay out the louvers on the centerline
of the piece so that the two rows are 1-3/8” apart on the centerline. Each louver should be
1.25” apart beginning 5/8” (on center) from the rear edge of the cowl. Lay these out until
there are two rows of five louvers. The reason you made your fixture oversize is so now
