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7
ELECTRICAL PRECAUTIONS-
Before servicing a pump, always shut off the main power breaker and then unplug the pump
- making sure you are wearing insulated protective sole shoes and not standing in water. Under flooded conditions, contact your local
electric company or a qualified licensed electrician for disconnecting electrical service prior to pump removal.
Submersible pumps contain oils which becomes pressurized and hot under operating condition.
Allow 2-1/2 hours after disconnecting
before attempting service.
If the above checklist does not uncover the problem, consult the factory - do not attempt to service or otherwise disassemble pump. Service must be performed by Zoeller
Authorized Service Centers. Go to www.zoellerpumps.com/service stations to find the Authorized Service Centers in your area.
SERVICE CHECKLIST
TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
1. Charging and charged LED’s alternate frequently.
(a) This is normal when battery is being topped off.
2. DC Pump won’t run.
(a) Check 30 amp fuse in line from pump to switch (see Figure
3). If fuse is blown, replace with 30 amp AGC fuse.
(b) Check for proper connections.
(c) Check all wire terminal points. Clean if required.
(d) Check for low battery. Service battery if required.
3. Pump runs but pumps very little or no water.
(a) Check for low battery. Battery will recharge if red power
“on” light indicates power has been restored and the
float switch is in the off position.
(b) If immediate usage is required, remove and replace dead
battery with a fully recharged battery.
(c) Due to varying conditions the pump may continue to
run on a low battery without sufficient power to remove
water. Pump will not stop running until battery is
completely discharged.
(d)
CAUTION
Weak batteries can be recharged but
may not store sufficient energy for full service. A weak
recharged battery can only be detected by reduced
pumping time or by checking each cell with a hydrometer.
If your emergency pump system is used frequently the
battery should be checked by a qualified battery dealer.
4. Pump cycles too frequently.
(a) Check positions of rubber stops on float rod.
(b) Adjust upper rubber float stop as required.
Recommended for standard installation.
5. Float switch in “on” position. Pump won’t run.
(a) Remove pump. Check for obstruction in pump preventing
impeller from rotating.
6. Pump runs, but pumps water intermittently.
(a) Pump is air locking. Check flow of water incoming to sump.
If water is entering the sump at a high velocity creating a
turbulent condition, a mixture of air and water may cause a
complete or partial air lock and reduce or stop the flow of
water in the discharge pipe.
(b) Baffle the incoming stream of water to reduce turbulence.
Diverting water stream against wall of basin usually
corrects an air lock problem.
7. Water level stays high. DC Pump continues to run.
(a) Battery is low.
(b) If power has been restored and water in sump remains
high check primary pump. Service if required.
(c) After several hours the battery will be restored to full
charge.
8. Alarm sounds during battery recharge cycle.
(a) Push alarm reset (max. 3 times). If condition persists,
replace battery.
(b) To silence alarm if alarm will not reset, unplug the charger
from 115 V wall outlet, then disconnect the black lead
from charger on negative (-) battery post. Check battery.
Replace if necessary. Reconnect and refer to Installation
(step 7).
9. Alarm does not sound when pump runs.
(a) Pump needs to run for 1 or more seconds before alarm
sounds.
(b) Be sure alarm hasn't been silenced. Quickly press and
release reset button.
(c) Inspect the connection between the green wire and the
blue connecter on the white wire. Verify that the metal
spade has not "missed" its target.
CONDITION
COMMON CAUSES
A. Pump will not start or run.
Check fuse, low voltage, overload open, open or incorrect wiring, open switch, impeller or seal bound mechanically,
motor or wiring shorted. Float assembly held down. Switch, damaged or out of adjustment.
B. Motor overheats and trips
overload or blows fuse.
Incorrect voltage, negative head (discharge open lower than normal) impeller or seal bound mechanically, motor
shorted.
C. Pump starts and stops too
often.
Float switch tether length too short, check valve stuck open, or none installed in long distance line, overload open,
bidding, sump pit too small.
D. Pump will not shut off.
Debris under float assembly, float bound by basin sides or other, switch, damaged or out of adjustment.
E. Pump operates but delivers
little or no water.
Check inlet, strainer housing, discharge pipe, and vent holes for obstructions. Discharge head exceeds pump
capacity. Low or incorrect voltage. Incoming water containing air or causing air to enter pumping chamber.
Incorrect motor rotation. (DC pump only)
F. Drop in head and/or capacity
after a period of use.
Increased pipe friction, clogged line or check valve. Abrasive material and adverse chemicals could possibly
deteriorate impeller and pump housing. Check line. Remove base and inspect.
G.
If tank or fittings leak.
Carefully tighten pipe joints (use pipe dope) and screws. Check gasket location, tighten lid evenly. Do not over
tighten fittings or screws.
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®
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