S U P E R S P O R T
36
Surface Prep
Sand the entire hull with 150.
Fill any dings, dents, craters, valleys or chips with wood
filler.
When dry, sand again with 150. Check to make sure that
all imperfections are filled.
If not, fill and sand again.
Spend a little time getting this right, as it will make your
boat look so much better when done.
After the filler is dry, sand it with 150 grit, using light
pressure.
At this point, you can round the deck where it meets the
sides.
Make sure that the bottom to sides and bottom to
transom corners are not rounded.
Blow off the hull with compressed air, or use a vacuum to
get the dust off.
Sealing Hull
Mix about 1 ounce of finishing resin.
Use a credit card to spread out the resin on the top and
sides.
Squeegee as much as you can. Get a thin even coat of
resin on all areas.
Use a small acid brush to get the edges.
Scrape as much resin as possible. You just want to wet
the wood with resin, any excess will just have to be
sanded off later.
Use a brush to coat the corners, and anywhere else you
can’t squeegee.
This first coat is easy, as the wood will darken as it gets
wetted with resin.
The second coat will be a little more challenging, but will
use far less resin and be faster to cover.
When you are sure that all areas of the boat are covered,
let it cure overnight.
Repeat the whole thing for the second coat, only this
time, after the second coat has cured, sand with 220 wet.
Sand with a bucket of water, a dribbling hose or in your
bathtub.
Use one of those rubber sanding blocks.
Don’t worry about the hull, it’s waterproof now…
Sand the inside of the hull if you want.
Sand until all areas are smooth, but don’t sand
through to the wood. If you do, you have to re-coat
the area with resin, and re-sand.
When cured, sand or scrape. Just make it smooth.
It’s ok if you sand through the resin on this coat.
When done, blow the dust off and do the bottom.
Use two coats of epoxy sealer.
Add Strakes
The strake positions come pre-marked on the
bottom sheets.
Sand the strakes with 150 till smooth all over.
Use medium CA after the hull is sealed.
We only get one chance at this, so take the time to
make sure everything is correct before you glue.
Make 100 percent sure that there is no glue fillet
between the strake and the hull bottom.
This would make the strakes useless, as we need
the edge to “bite” as we turn.
Finishing
Once the hull is dry, wipe it down with alcohol. Use
a tack cloth lightly to remove any dust.
Spray a light coat of primer. Let this flash for a few
minutes, and spray a heavy coat on.
Let sit overnight.
When the primer is dry, use spot putty to fill any
nicks or surface imperfections.
When dry, wet sand with 400 on the rubber block.
If you are happy with the surface, spray on another
medium coat of primer.
When dry, wet sand with 600 or 800.
