OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION:
l
Timer is only to be used to turn on the sanitize
sequence in which the temperature of the wax will
approach 200°F or 93.3°C. All units are simply turned
“on” by plugging them in.
l
Model S is an old reference to current models PB-107
l
Model H (no longer being manufactured) is referring to
an old PB-104 without a drain.
l
Model K is an old reference to current model PB-104
l
Lowest operating temperature is 126°F or 52.2°C.
Below this temperature, wax will harden (if lid is
removed from the unit or power is off)
l
Model BB is an old reference to current model PB-105
l
A capillary thermostat is attached to the temperature
control. This device controls the temperature with a
mechanism that involves a tube filled with oil. The
temperature heats up the oil in the capillary, and the
hotter it gets, the higher the oil rises up the tube.
l
There are 2 overheating sensors in all models. The
L-145 is the low limit overheating sensor. This sensor
will turn the unit off when it gets in the range of 145°F to
155°F (62.8°C to 68.3°C). The other overheating
sensor is for the sanitize mode. This sensor will not
allow the unit to go past 200°F or 93.3°C.
If the wax is at a temperature range of 127°F to 130°F
(52.8°C to 54.4°C) and has been continually reused for
months, then it is likely that the oil content has been
depleted from the wax. Add oil or get new wax. If the wax in
the bath is partially melted then a new heating element is
not needed. If the wax goes completely solid, then they will
need a new heating element. (see parts list).
11) Wax is too hot for patient and the unit is at lowest
possible operating temperature (126°F or 52.2°C):
l
The sanitize mode is turned on with a timer.
l
Standard operating temperature is 126°F to 130°F
(52.2°C to 54.4°C)
Either different wax needs to be purchased with a lower
melting temperature or a temperature acclimation
procedure can be followed. This procedure involves
dipping the patient's hand from the fingertips to the first
knuckle, removing and waiting about ten seconds for the
wax to cool. Next, dip the patient's hand from the fingertips
to the second knuckle (proceeding to cover up the first
layer of wax and effectively insulating the hand from some
of the heat). Continue to build the wax up incrementally by
small amounts.
10) Old wax not melting properly and hardening over
time after continual reuse:
There is a short circuit in the unit. The unit must be opened
up for repairs.
9) Wax is not melting all the way:
The wax in the paraffin bath must reach 200°F+ or 93.3°C+
when melting the wax for the first time. In order to fully be
sure that the unit has reached the proper temperature,
make sure the timer has been through at least 2 cycles (3
cycles for larger units). If the wax still does not melt, then
the wax may be bad.
6) Bath will not get to the sanitize temperature:
Bad low temp overheating sensor (6903-146-000 or L-
145) or bad high temp overheating sensor (6903-144-000
or L-200) or heating element needs to be replaced (see
parts list). It is also possible that the unit has been wired
incorrectly.
Check adjustable operating thermostat on the back of the
unit (PB-107) or remove front cover (PB-104 & PB-105)
and make sure thermostat is turned all the way clockwise.
If the temperature does not rise in 1 to 2 hours, the heating
element (see parts list) is bad or it has been wired
incorrectly . Also, the unit may have a bad capillary
thermostat (6902-140-000)
3) Operating Temp light does not turn “on” when
plugged in:
First check the fuses to see if they are blown. Next, check
the circuit breaker on the building to see if it has been
tripped. Third, the green light may be broken.
The green light (see No. 3 above) is no good or has been
wired incorrectly.
8) Timer is stuck:
Dickson Paraffin Bath FAQ
7) Bath goes to high, 200°F+ or 93.3°C+ but proceeds
to cool down to room temperature
1) Circuit reakers ‘trip’ when paraffin bath is plugged
in:
2) Fuses blow when plugged in:
4) Operating Temp light is dark even though the
paraffin bath is plugged in and is melting wax
properly:
5) Paraffin bath gets hot enough to get to the sanitize
(high heat) temperature, melts the wax, but won't cool
down:
Bad high-temp overheating sensor (6903-144-000 or L-
200) or the timer could be stuck (6902-348-000)
If fuses in paraffin bath did not also blow out, there is too
much electrical load on circuit breaker. Try another
electrical outlet.
Remove the knob, loosen the nut slightly, and try the timer
again. If it still is stuck then the timer is bad (6902-348-000).
WHITEHALL MANUFACTURING
• P.O. BOX 3527 • City of Industry, CA 91744-0527 U.S.A
Phone (800) 782-7706 • (626) 968-6681 • Fax (626) 855-4862 • Web: www.whitehallmfg.com
7
Instructions for Operation and Care of Dickson Paraffin Baths
