VERITAS Mk.II, Manual

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17
Operation – Straight-Edged Tools: Chisels and Planes
Note: Make sure the blade does not contact
the platter retention thumbscrew while the
sharpening system is turned on.
g) Check results every 2 to 4 seconds, stopping when
a bevel extending back from the edge at least
1
/
8
"
has been created. It is sometimes difficult to tell
whether any dull or slightly nicked areas remain. To
ensure that the bevel extends to the edge all the way
across, inspect the face of the blade; if a consistent
wire edge has formed all the way from one side of
the tool to the other, then the bevel and the face have
properly intersected one another.
h) If 80x was the initial abrasive, remove the platter
and resecure it with the 100µ abrasive facing up.
Repeat steps
e to g .
Note: There is no functional reason to continue abrasion on
the bevel of a blade once the edge is formed at any one stage.
So when changing a blade from an acute bevel such as 20°
to a steeper one such as 30°, much of the bevel will remain
at 20° after the cutting angle of the edge has been effectively
changed to 30°. In this case, it would be counter-productive
to continue grinding until the new bevel is formed all the
way back to the heel. For the same reason, always grind the
smallest possible micro-bevel on a blade. Using the same
principle, you can quickly relieve a signifi cant portion of
the heel of the blade as shown in
Figure 20 , using a coarse
abrasive on the turntable. This will reduce the size of the
primary bevel without any deleterious effects, speeding up
primary bevel regrindings.
Step 3: Create the Micro-Bevel
a) With the thinner (3mm) platter on the turntable and
the 9µ abrasive facing up, repeat Step 2: e through
g above, until a micro-bevel has been established
extending
1
/
32
" back from the edge. This should
take only 1 to 3 seconds.
b) With the tool still clamped in the holder, remove the
wire edge formed by applying the face of the blade
flat against the rotating 9µ abrasive. Position the
blade to make a leading cut as shown in
Figure 10 .
If you are not comfortable doing this, turn the power
off and do it as if using a stone.
c) Repeat the previous two steps 2 to 3 times, holding the
blade to the abrasive for 1 to 2 seconds each time.
How to Resharpen a Tool
If the blade has previously been sharpened on the system
and the face still has a highly polished lapped surface
extending back at least
1
/
16
" behind the edge, start at Step 2:
Create the Primary Bevel . If not, start at Step 1: Lapping .
How to Sharpen a
Damaged Tool
There are different meanings to "damaged", but here we
are talking about two different types of damage: tools
with serious edge damage, which can be large chips
in the edge, or loss of hardness (evidenced by heat
discoloration) or badly rusted blades.
Edge Damage: Assuming the face of the blade requires
no extra lapping, grind the edge back beyond the damage
to, in effect, move the cutting edge beyond the damaged
area of the face. To do so, it’s best to grind free hand
on a sander or grinder, approximately perpendicular to
the face of the blade until the edge is in a clear portion
of the face, thus creating a fl at where the cutting edge
normally is. Proceed as described in
How To Sharpen
a New Tool, Step 2: Create the Primary Bevel , starting
with 80x abrasive.
Rusty Tools: Follow the same procedure as for a new
tool, but pay close attention to the lapping step. All
traces of deep rust or pitting must be removed from
the face of the blade near the cutting edge. If any rust
damage coincides with the cutting edge, there will be a
nick at that point. If extra lapping does not remove all
pitting near or on the edge, the blade should be treated
as described in the previous paragraph.
Figure 20: Primary bevel relief.
Relief Bevel
Face
Cutting Edge
20°
30°
Heel
Primary
Bevel