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•
Make sure there is a flat, clean surface for the nut to rest on and that
there is solid contact on both the bottom of the nut as well as the end
of the fingerboard. This will ensure good glue adhesion for the nut.
•
Cut a pencil in half the long way, sand it flat on a piece of sandpaper
and sharpen the lead to a point. Lay the flat side of the pencil on the
top three or four frets with two layers of blue tape on the top of these
frets, dry fit the nut and project a pencil line onto the face of the nut.
Be sure that the grooves cut into the nut are slightly above this line.
Assuming they are, go ahead and glue the nut using CA glue. If the
grooves are below the pencil line, the nut will need to be shimmed
with a small piece of veneer. Once the nut is glued, erase the pencil
line and re-draw the line again to be sure it is exactly where it needs to
be. Using the specific nut files for the diameter of the string size,
slowly file to just slightly above the pencil line being sure to file back
from the from edge of the nut.
Note:
Continue to lower the saddle until the adjustments &
specifications in the next section can be met. Be sure to read and
understand the tolerances you are shooting for and continue to test
play the guitar until it plays the way you want.
Note:
The first time you string your instrument, the guitar will need to
settle before making drastic adjustments. Remember, there is now a
lot of tension from the strings that will begin to make the adjustments
difficult initially. Most production guitars will be strung and left aside
for a period of time while the neck settles with tension and at pitch.
Step Nineteen-Truss Rod Adjustment
Every guitar is going to be different and will
react differently to string tension. Be sure to snug the truss rod adjustment so
it does not rattle but do not create any additional adjustment without letting
the guitar settle in with all the strings at full tension, at pitch.
