Only use good quality, clean fertile hatching eggs
-
Do not store eggs for longer than 7 days before incubating
. On average, one day’s
storage adds one hour to incubation time. This must be taken into account when eggs are set, so
fresh and stored eggs should be set at different times
-
The longer you store the eggs, the lower the hatch rate
. Hatchability is depressed
by prolonged storage. The effect increases with storage time after the initial six-day period,
resulting in losses of 0.5 to 1.5% per day with the percent increasing as storage extends
further
-
Use eggs from good medium aged flock
– young birds produce small eggs which are not ideal
for incubation. Older flock produce eggs which have lower hatchability
-
Only set eggs which are uniform and clean
. Neve
r set “dirty” eggs – eggs with visible
manure on, as you will introduce pathogens into the hatcher
-
Don’t wipe eggs before setting as you will close the egg pores which they need to breathe
through
– rather use a brush to clean eggs
-
If you smell a bad egg, remove immediately and discard
-
Candle eggs after 10 days in the hatcher to check for fertility. Eggs cannot be checked
for fertility before 10 days in the hatcher
-
Remove eggs which are not fertile
as they can potentially become “poppers” – eggs that
burst and release pathogens
-
Don’t use a permanent marker when marking eggs
. The egg can absorb the toxic
chemicals in the permanent marker which leads to potential early death. Rather write on the plastic
tray
-
Never mix waterfowl (like duck eggs) with dry or game fowl (like chickens) in the same
hatcher or hatcher. Waterfowl have potential pathogens on their shells which may negatively affect
chicken eggs and cause early deaths of embryos
-
Place eggs with their sharp end pointing downwards
both in storage as well as when
placing in the hatcher
