Flaire Issue 1.3 29/06/01
Page 5 of 11
Pre-cast block flue (Figs. 2c)
Note:
The outlet restricter plate must not be used with this installation.
1. Secure the self-adhesive foam strip to the back of the
sealing flange or convection box flange as appropriate (Fig.
3).
2. Slide the convection box into position, making sure that the
sealing strip is compressed and forms an effective seal
around the complete frame.
3. Drill the front face of the opening to match the four holes in
the flange of the appliance and insert the plugs provided
4. Secure the convection box using the screws provided. Or
alternatively use optional wire fixing kit.
Metal fluebox and flue system (Fig. 2d)
Note:
The outlet restricter plate must not be used with this installation.
1. The metal fluebox must stand on a non-combustible hearth of at least 50mm
thickness.
2. The top, sides and rear of the box must be covered with a 50mm minimum thickness
of mineral wool insulation, see Fig. 2d.
3. Secure the self-adhesive foam sealing strip to the back of the convection box flange.
4. Slide the convection box into position, making sure that the sealing strip is
compressed and forms an effective seal around the complete frame.
5. Drill the front face of the opening to match the 4 holes in the flange of the appliance
and insert the plugs provided
Wire Fixing Kit (Optional)
The kit supplied enables the convection box to be secured to the opening without drilling any
holes in the surround.
Items supplied:
1. 2 wire ropes with fixed nipple
2. 2 Sleeve bolts and backnuts
3. 2 Adjustable nipples with clamp screws
4. 4 Screweyes and wall plugs
1. Mark out and drill 4 holes in the back of the opening to
suit wall plugs supplied. See the drawing for dimensions.
Insert the screweyes and align to allow the wires to pass
through vertically.
2. If the convector box has not been pre-punched for the wire ropes, drill the top and
back shown in the drawing, removing burrs from the drilled holes.
3. Pass one wire rope through each top hole, from the inside out, and pull through until
the fixed nipple rests against the inside of the top plate.
4. Place the convector box near the opening and pass each wire rope through the top
and bottom screweyes, and back through the holes in the back of the convector box.
5. Push the convector box into the opening up to the surround, pulling the wire ropes
through to take up all slack.
6. Run the backnuts up to the heads of the sleeve bolts, and thread a sleeve bolt over
each wire rope, threaded end first.
7. Push the sleeve bolts into the holes in the back of the convector box as far as the
backnuts.
8. Thread an adjustable nipple on to each wire rope up to the heads of the sleeve bolts.
Pull any slack wire through the nipple and tighten the clamp screws.
9. Make sure that the foam seal behind the fire flange is compressed all round and then,
using two spanners, screw the backnuts down the sleeve bolts in order to tension the
wire ropes and hold the convector box against the surround.
10. Coil up surplus wire rope and store inside convection channel (see drawing).
Do not
cut off surplus
; possible future removal and refitting of convector box requires the full
length of wire supplied.
Fig. 3 Fitting the restricter plate &
foam strip
