.
Move the heat gun or iron back and forth over the surface of the wing, allowing the
heat to shrink all of the covering on that side at the same rate. Keep the heat gun
moving at all times, about 4" to 6" above the covering. If you stop moving for too
long, or hold the gun too close, you might melt a hole in the covering. If you notice
that the covering material is "ballooning-up" and not shrinking completely, put a
small pin hole in the bottom of each rib bay to allow expanding air to escape.
97.
Reseal all overlapping seams and edges with a sealing iron. This includes leading
and trailing edges, ribs and spars.
98.
Cover the bottom of the fuselage first. When cutting the material for the bottom allow enough extra material around the
nose, or any other area with compound curves, so you can get a good grip on it with your hand. Start by sealing the
covering to the model at the tail. Work slowly forward with the hot iron, sealing the covering smoothly to the bottom of the
fuse. When you get to the nose area, work the iron over the covering with one hand while you pull on it with your other
hand. As the covering becomes pliable from the heat, you can pull it gently around the curve. Work slowly, allowing the heat
to do the work. Do not pull too hard or the covering will tear. When you have it stuck in place, trim off the excess covering
material and reseal the edges with the iron.
99.
Repeat this procedure for covering both
sides of the fuselage. Allow about
1/8"x1/4" overlap onto the top and
bottom of the fuse.
100.
Cover the fuselage top in the same
manner as the bottom and sides.
Remember to reaseal the edges after
trimming.
101.
Cover the stabilizer, fin, and rudder
using the same techniques as used for
covering the wing.
102.
Cut away the covering over the pushrod
exit holes.
103.
Use a sharp razor blade or modeling
knife to carefully cut away all covering
material in the areas where the tail
surfaces will be glued on. There must be
wood-to-wood contact in the glue joints.
Try not to cut too deep into the wood
itself.
104.
Cover the bottom side of the elevators first and then the top. When covering solid
sheet surfaces like the elevators, better results may be obtained by starting at the
center and working toward the outer edges. This allows the air to escape from
under the covering as it is applied.
"DKM" Stik-Tite
Pressure Sensitive Decals
Cut out the decals with a pair of sharp
scissors. Leave about 1/32" to 1/16" of
clear edge around the decal. Round
the corners as you are cutting. Wet
the surface on which the decal will be
placed with soapy water (use
dishwater detergent). Place the decal
on the model and squeegee the water
from underneath with a balsa paddle.
Allow to dry. This procedure will
prevent air from being trapped
underneath as is possible when the
decals are applied dry.