background image

Follow this by using a drum-sanding bit to smooth the edges and
contour the corner radiuses. Be careful to keep the edges as
smooth and uniform as possible, using the lines as a guide. Use
a sanding block with 220-grit paper to sand the straight edges
smooth. Finally, use a piece of 220 sandpaper to lightly sand all of
the edges, making them completely smooth.

Clean the cowl,

removing all dust and wipe off any remaining ink lines with alcohol.

The cowl should now be able to fit over the engine and onto the
front of the fuselage.

7) The cowl can now be mounted to the fuselage. To do this

as accurately as possible, it is helpful to have the spinner
backplate in position on the engine. From the kit contents, locate
the bag containing the Spinner Assembly. Remove the spinner
backplate and the four, molded shaft adapter rings from the
package. The center hole in backplate can be shimmed to fit many
engine prop shafts. However, our Saito 1.50 has a very large shaft
diameter - even larger than the hole in the backplate. This requires
that the hole be opened up with a drill to fit on the shaft. To do this
accurately, we used a drill press. Once the backplate fits onto the
engine, the cowl can be mounted.

Slide the cowl in place over the fuselage and then, place the
backplate onto the engine prop shaft. This gives you good visual
reference for centering the cowl to the spinner.

We suggest

leaving a gap of anywhere from 1/8" - 1/4" between the front of the
cowl and the backplate. Hold the cowl tightly in position and use a
non-permanent marker pen or pointed punch to mark the four
mounting hole locations on the fuselage sides, through the pre-
drilled holes in the cowl. Remove the cowl.

Use a 1/16" dia. bit to drill guide holes into the fuselage, about 1/4"
deep. Use the four #3 x 10mm PWA screws to mount the cowl to
the fuselage.

Do not over-tighten these screws at this time.

Remove the screws and the cowl, for now.

8) The cowl is now prepared to clear the engine muffler. As

mentioned earlier, R/C engine muffler shapes and types are all
different and therefore, each engine/muffler installation tends to be
one of a kind. For example, our Saito 1.50 has a muffler manifold
shape and location that does not allow the muffler to exit the cowl
without interfering with the front of the fuselage. This fact means
that a small part of the front of the fuselage must be relieved to
allow muffler clearance. A flexible manifold tube and a Pitts-style
muffler may work to eliminate this issue but we chose to work with
the stock engine set-up. Here's how we did it.

With the engine in place on the mounts, lay the fuselage on its
side, manifold side up. Rotate the manifold on the engine head to
find the location on the fuselage that will require the least amount 
of relief to allow the muffler to be mounted. In our case, this was
the lower, left side. Use a circle guide to determine the diameter
of the muffler (our Saito muffler measured just about 1-1/8" in
diameter). We used a non-permanent marker pen to mark the
fuselage with the approximate exit location for the muffler body,
using the next size up circle guide diameter - 1-1/4". This partial
circle mark becomes the guide for the initial relief of the fuselage
for muffler clearance.

Remove the engine from the motor mounts. Use a hobby knife and
#11 blade to cut away the covering material within the area to be
sanded. We used a scrap length of 1-1/4" dowel (aluminum tubing
or a scrap piece of pipe would also work just as well) and wrapped
it with 80 grit sandpaper. We, then, sanded the required channel,
at the same approximate angle that the muffler would sit on the
engine. Believe it or not, we sanded this relief channel perfectly
the first time!  The channel was approximately 1/8" larger in
diameter than the muffler body, which is just about perfect for
clearance. Place the engine, with the manifold and muffler loosely
in place, back on the mounts to check your work.

Make any

adjustments needed to improve the channel. When it looks right,
remove the engine and lightly sand the finished channel with 220
sandpaper.

13

Summary of Contents for Rascal 110

Page 1: ...ied it could also be used to drop candy or parachutes Another potential use for this versatile model is night flying Because the trim scheme employs the use of transparent covering material in the open areas of the structure lighting systems such as those made and sold by Ram Products would be very effective Assembly of the Rascal 110 is easy quick and straightforward This assembly manual is fully...

Page 2: ... can be even longer with throttle management Of course side benefits from using gas engines are things like greatly reduced fuel costs much less field support equipment needed great reliability and the almost total lack of clean up required At the end of the day clean up usually consists of wiping off a few bug strikes and fingerprints COVERING MATERIAL Your Rascal 110 ARF has been professionally ...

Page 3: ... 3 Dia White SIG Spinner Assembly 1 each Spinner Cone 1 each Spinner Backplate 1 each Prop Adapter Ring Set 4 each 2 x 10mm Phillips Head Mounting Screws 1 bag Molded Clear Plastic Side Window Set 1 bag Motor Mount Assembly 2 each Fiber Filled Motor Mount Arms 1 Right 1 Left 4 each M4 x 25mm PWA Mounting Bolts 4 each M4 Washers 4 each M4 Split Ring Lock Washers 4 each M4 Blind Mounting Nuts 1 bag ...

Page 4: ...me modelers may want to dress up their Rascal 110 using striping tape to accent the trim scheme We like this look and decided to use it on our models We used a good quality striping tape to frame the color lines where the transparent color meets the white covering This was easy to do and gives a very nice finished look to the overall model Because the Rascal 110 is such a large model we found that...

Page 5: ... to each exposed hinge edge Repeat this process for the remaining hinges Remove the tape holding the flexed aileron to the wing panel and flex the aileron in the opposite direction Again use a piece of masking tape to hold the aileron fully flexed to the wing panel Turn the wing panel over and apply four drops of thin CA glue to each exposed edge of each hinge exactly as before Remove the tape hol...

Page 6: ... into the mounting block at the marks just made Install and tighten the four screws in place through both servo hatch covers Use the servo mounting screws provided with your radio system to secure both aileron servos in place to the mounting blocks on each aileron servo hatch To avoid possibly splitting the mounting blocks with the screws first pre drill the holes with an under size drill bit 5 Th...

Page 7: ...e end of the retrieval string tied to it tweezers or needle nose pliers might be handy in doing this Begin routing the servo extension lead through the wing by lightly pulling on the inboard end of the string while feeding the cable extension end into the hole inside of the servo bay Continue pulling the lead through the wing until the servo extension plug is fully out of the exit hole while seati...

Page 8: ... screws to mount the control horn securely to the aileron Re connect the R C link to the control horn and remove the two pieces of tape holding the aileron in neutral to the wing panel Plug the aileron servo into one of the leads in the Y harness and turn on the radio system Make sure the aileron trim lever is set at neutral on the transmitter Now use the transmitter to check the aileron for neutr...

Page 9: ...Remember to use only gas compatible fuel tubing for gasoline engines such as Tygon sold by both Du Bro and Sullivan The fuel tank body itself is gas compatible and can be assembled in the same way as described earlier using a replacement gas stopper and Tygon fuel lines ENGINE AND FUEL TANK INSTALLATION This assembly phase requires some custom installation work based on the particular engine size ...

Page 10: ...hese lines are to be used for measurement reference 4 STROKE ENGINES The following steps will show the installation of a Saito 1 50 four cycle engine The engine will be mounted in the inverted position To make the initial fitting of the engine to the mounts more convenient remove the muffler and header pipe for now We also suggest that you remove the screws holding the windshield in place to the f...

Page 11: ...sing the Saito 1 50 engine shown here we used 8 32 x 1 1 2 socket head bolts For 8 32 bolts we used a 19 166 bit to drill the proper clearance holes If you are careful it may be possible to drill these holes by hand However we suggest using a drill press to ensure that these holes are correctly placed and drilled truly perpendicular to the motor mount arms 3 The scrap piece of plywood used to moun...

Page 12: ...s Begin by placing the cowl on a flat surface with the nose up Use a ruler and a pencil or non permanent marker pen to place a mark at the bottom center Use a 90O triangle to then make a vertical line straight up the middle of the cowl bottom This line becomes the reference line for the required opening Since the overall width of the Saito 1 50 at the head is about 2 1 4 we know that the opening m...

Page 13: ... prepared to clear the engine muffler As mentioned earlier R C engine muffler shapes and types are all different and therefore each engine muffler installation tends to be one of a kind For example our Saito 1 50 has a muffler manifold shape and location that does not allow the muffler to exit the cowl without interfering with the front of the fuselage This fact means that a small part of the fron...

Page 14: ... wire into the needle valve hole and tightened the setscrew The needle valve is then threaded back in place onto the carburetor all the way Place a straight edge against the fuselage side at the nose intersecting the piece of wire Mark this point on the wire with a marker pen Remove the needle valve and wire from the engine and remove the wire from the needle valve Cut the wire to length at the ma...

Page 15: ...ueling valve on the firewall pointed straight down through the bottom cowl opening Be sure to locate the bracket far enough off center on the firewall to allow your glow driver to fit onto the glowplug Mounting the bracket in this position eliminates the need for another hole in the cowl and hides it from view 12 With the engine temporarily back on the mounts the required hole for the throttle tub...

Page 16: ... of the crankcase Attach a 7 or so length of fuel tubing to this fitting Using your mounting hardware mount the engine with the muffler and manifold firmly in place permanently to the motor mount arms The inner throttle pushrod is now prepared for connection to the engine throttle arm From the Throttle Linkage bag locate one of the R C links with an M2 x 22m stud threaded in place Unthread the stu...

Page 17: ...hese is the required width of the mounting bolt pattern on the firewall and the firewall spacer needed to move the engine forward from the face of the firewall toward the front of the cowl Since it is likely a given that gasoline engines used in this model will be installed inverted then another consideration is the engine s muffler The ideal gas engine set up would be an inverted installation wit...

Page 18: ...ed in Step 14 in the 4 STROKE ENGINE section and is exactly the same for the gas version 3 In order to route the two required fuel lines from the tank to the engine and fuel filling valve two appropriate sized holes must be drilled through the sides of the wood engine spacer at the correct locations The fuel lines are then fitted onto the tank fuel tubes and routed out of the two holes The vent or...

Page 19: ...n with the ball link fitting in place Use a pencil to mark the firewall at the point where the throttle pushrod will be placed Remove the engine from the firewall and use a 13 64 dia drill bit to make a hole through the firewall at the mark just made The nylon throttle pushrod housing tube is now installed To do this follow the instructions provided in Step 12 in the 4 Stroke Engine section to ins...

Page 20: ...tal R C Links threaded onto brass pull pull fittings 2 each 1 9mm dia x 4 2mm Brass Pull Pull Swaging Tube Fittings In addition the elevator rudder and throttle servos and the elevator servo extension cable will be used You will also need the remaining R C link and threaded metal stud 1 Two of the Channeled Balsa Tail Fairings are now glued in place at the fuselage stabilizer saddle one on each si...

Page 21: ...he servo fits in the center of the servo compartment with its output arm toward the front You will need an output arm that is long enough on each side to properly operate the pull pull linkage to the rudder As mentioned earlier we used the Du Bro Super Strength Servo Arms for all of our servo output arms We used the 1 3 4 two arm output for the pull pull set up on our rudder servo Install the rubb...

Page 22: ...or now 8 The throttle pushrod is now connected to the throttle servo Plug the throttle servo into the receiver and turn the radio system on Use the transmitter to check the throttle servo for the correct direction of travel for high and low throttle reverse the servo travel if needed Place an output arm onto the servo positioning it to provide equal travel in both directions Turn the radio system ...

Page 23: ...d to the wing and fuselage without tilting one way or the other Carefully square the stabilizer to the fuselage and wing in top view This is easiest to do by taking measurements from the same point on each side of the airplane With the stab firmly and correctly in position on the fuselage use a pencil to draw light lines on each side of its bottom surface along the straight edges of the channeled ...

Page 24: ...tion and mark its location onto the side of the rudder at its leading edge with a non permanent marker pen This line represents the mounting location for the nylon control horns one on each side of the rudder Re tape the pull pull cable back onto the fuselage side for now Place the control horn onto the line just made centering its base on each side of the line In top view line up its four linkage...

Page 25: ... the following hardware 2 R C Links Threaded on Brass Pull Pull Fittings 2 Brass Pull Pull Swaging Tube 1 Nylon Control Horn 1 Nylon Control Horn Base 2 M2 x 20mm Phillips Head Bolts 2 M2 Hex Nuts 1 4 40 x 4 5 8 Metal Pushrod 1 4 40 R C Link 1 4 40 Solder Link 2 Tailwheel Centering Springs 1 The 4 40 elevator pushrod is now made Solder the 4 40 Solder Link to the unthreaded end of the pushrod Inse...

Page 26: ...ly to the rear of each R C link Bend the loose cable ends firmly to 90O against the swage tubes and trim the excess cable with wire cutters 3 The tailwheel centering springs are now attached to the tailwheel steering arms just above the tailwheel itself and the aluminum rudder steering arms previously mounted to the bottom of the rudder These springs are installed and bent to impart just a little ...

Page 27: ... In the case of the large doorframe outline you can apply it in several ways We prefer to cut this decal out on both sides of the frame outline and apply it in one piece If you are careful this isn t as difficult as it sounds It can also be applied without cutting out the inside Cut out the outline apply the decal and then cut out the window frame portion Application of this and the other decals i...

Page 28: ...to your finished Rascal 110 ARF and is ready to use with typical propellers in the size range for this model Because the spinner backplate was already fitted to your engine earlier in the cowl mounting instructions all that s left is to place the backplate onto the prop shaft followed by the propeller Firmly secure the propeller using the engine s washer and nut The spinner cone is now installed o...

Page 29: ...N From the kit contents locate the Molded Clear Plastic Side Window bag These windows have been molded to fit in place into the side window cut outs from the inside of the fuselage Note that there is a left and a right window Use scissors to cut out each window leaving about 1 8 of plastic around the edges for a gluing surface We suggest using 5 minute epoxy or RC 56 glue to mount these windows Do...

Page 30: ...C G point Level means level not nose down or tail down level If the nose hangs down the model is nose heavy Likewise if the airplane hangs tail down it is tail heavy If either of these conditions exist with your model they must be corrected If the model is just a little nose heavy nose down a few degrees it can be safely flown without problem If the model is very nose heavy then it should be corre...

Page 31: ...king in pre stall followed by the nose dropping just a little before the airplane almost immediately resumed controlled flight With a little rudder input you ll find that the Rascal 110 can be flown to a virtual standstill before stalling This exercise tells you a lot about how slow you can fly the airplane during a landing approach The Rascal 110 was never intended to be an IMAC capable model but...

Page 32: ...y fix Inspect the fuselage radio compartment carefully Check each servo looking for any loose linkages Make sure that each R C link is secured to the servo output arms with short lengths of medium fuel tubing Then check each nylon control horn on the flying surfaces for the same thing Tighten and secure anything that is not supposed be loose Inspect the engine looking for any loose bolts or nuts a...

Page 33: ...ik Fill Fueling Valves Hardware Hitec Radio Systems Available At All Good Hobby Shops After Market Receivers Servos Servo Extensions Switches Saito Engines Distributed Exclusively in the U S by Horizon Hobby Inc Champaign Il SIG Products Available At All Good Hobby Shops Quality Kits Balsawood Fuel Adhesives Hardware Accessories F P E Gas Engines Irvine Engines Sullivan 484 Gasoline Diesel Availab...

Page 34: ...model size or full size are not toys Because of the speeds that airplanes must achieve in order to fly they are capable of causing serious bodily harm and property damage if they crash IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE to assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions to ground test the finished model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworth...

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