c) Turn on the transmitter and then plug the battery pack onto
the ESC.
d) Slowly advance the throttle stick on the transmitter. The
motor should start turning.
If not, your throttle channel
needs to be reversed on the transmitter.
e) Now make sure the motor shaft is moving in the correct
direction. When viewing the fuselage from the rear to the
front - as if you were sitting in the cockpit - the motor shaft
should turn clockwise when throttle is applied. If not, you've
got the polarity of the motor-to-esc or esc-to-battery wiring
reversed.
RECEIVER INSTALLATION
❑
32) Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into the receiver.
Note: Typically the elevator servo plugs into receiver slot #2 and
the rudder servo into slot #4. Consult your radio system manual.
❑
33) There are two ways to hook up dual aileron servos,
depending upon what kind of radio system you have:
a) COMPUTER RADIO SYSTEM:
If you have a computer
radio with a 6-channel receiver, you can plug the two aileron
servos into seperate receiver slots and the computer radio
will do the mixing for you. Note: Typically with a computer
radio system the dual aileron servos will plug into receiver slots
#1 and #6. Consult your radio system manual.
b) NON-COMPUTER RADIO SYSTEM: If you do not have a
"computer" radio, you will need to get a "Y-Harness" chord,
(not supplied), to link the two aileron servos together. The
single end of the Y-Harness is then plugged into the normal
aileron slot in the receiver. Note: Typically the normal aileron
slot for a single servo setup is receiver slot #1. Consult your
radio system manual.
❑
34) Test the servos for proper operation:
a) Make sure your transmitter aileron, elevator, and rudder trim
levers are in neutral position, and that the throttle stick is in
the full "low throttle" position. Then turn on your transmitter.
b) Hook a charged battery pack up to the ESC. The elevator,
rudder, and aileron servos should now be working.
c) Move the transmitter sticks and check for proper response
and correct direction of servo movement. Use the servo-
reversing feature of your transmitter, if needed, to make the
servos move in the correct direction.
d) If necessary reposition the servo output arms on the
elevator and rudder servos as close to 90
O
to the servo case
as possible. Be sure to reinstall the output arm retaining
screws after making the adjustment.
e) With the radio still on and the servo arms squared up, note
the exact neutral positions of the control surfaces. Adjust
the V-bend in the pushrods if necessary to get the control
surfaces properly centered.
❑
35) Stuff all the servo wires and the receiver neatly inside the
wing. Notice in the next photo that we put the receiver and all the
wires in the left wing bay. Optional: You can use a piece of Velcro
®
tape on the bottom of the receiver, or a strip of Scotch
®
tape across
the wing opening, to keep the receiver from falling out in flight.
❑
36) Use small pieces of clear tape (not supplied) to fasten the
receiver antenna onto the bottom of the profile fuselage.
BATTERY PACK INSTALLATION
❑
37) When you are ready to fly, the battery pack is carried in the
opening in the fuselage, and it is secured in place with a Velcro
®
strap. The use of Velcro
®
makes the battery pack easy to remove
for re-charging between flights.
7
COMPLETE THE RADIO INSTALLATION
For this section you will need a 10-12amp brushless ESC, micro
receiver, and battery pack (see notes at the beginning of this
manual about esc, receiver, and battery specifications).
ESC INSTALLATION
❑
26) Solder the 3 Brass Connectors (female) that are provided in
this kit onto the motor leads of your ESC.
❑
27) Solder your choice of battery pack connectors (not supplied)
onto the battery leads of your ESC.
Note: Your ESC probably did not come with battery pack
connectors pre-installed, nor are battery pack connectors supplied in
the kit. That is because there are several good connectors on the
market for this size electric motor installation, and most R/C fliers
quickly develope their own preference and want to stick with it so that
all of their similar sized battery packs are interchangeable. So the
choice of battery connectors is left up to you. Note in the picture that
we used a Kavan K2 Connector, #KAV6321. Other suitable choices
would be Deans Ultra or Sermos connectors.
❑
28) Connect the ESC to the motor, being very careful to get the
polarity correct (red to red, black to black, etc.).
❑
29) Mount the ESC to the side of the fuselage with Velcro
®
tape
as shown in the next photo. Use clear plastic tape as needed to
hold the motor wires in place against the fuselage side.
❑
30) Mount the propeller securely to the motor shaft.
SAFETY WARNING: With the propeller now mounted to the motor,
it is very important that you always remain aware of the position of
the throttle stick on your transmitter, especially when there is a
battery plugged into the airborne system. The motor/geardrive unit
used in this model is powerful enough to cause damage to people or
property if it is activated prematurely, accidently, or unexpectedly.
With an electric airplane, we recommended that you get in the habit
of always keeping the throttle stick in the "low throttle" position, even
when the transmitter is in storage. Be sure to recheck the throttle
stick position before plugging in the airborne battery pack, and also
again before turning on the airborne on/off switch.
Under no
circumstances should you hold this model by the nose when the
battery is plugged in or the radio system is turned on. Never plug in
your flight battery until you are on the flight line, ready to fly.
❑
31) Test the motor for proper operation:
a) Plug the ESC into the receiver. Note: Typically the ESC plugs
into receiver slot #3 - but this may not be true in all cases. Some
brands of radios may be different. Consult your radio system manual.
b) Make sure the throttle stick on the transmitter is in the low
throttle position.