Page 47
ROYAL ENFIELD 350cc and 500cc O.H.V. WORKSHOP MANUAL
tightening the steering stem locknut after
loosening the nuts on the three pinch bolts
which secure the fork head to the steering
stem and to the two main tubes. The head
should be adjusted so that when the front
wheel is lifted clear of the ground a light
tap on the handlebars will cause the
steering to swing to full lock in either
direction, while at the same time there
should be only the slightest trace of play in
the bearings. When testing for freedom of
movement the steering damper, if fitted,
should be disconnected by unscrewing the
anchor plate pin.
Adjustment of the steering head depends
on the ability of the fork head to slide on
the steering stem and on the fork main
tubes. A rubber washer is interposed
between the fork head and the top of the
lamp bracket tube to permit the necessary
movement. If this rubber washer is fully
compressed while there is still some play in
the steering head, it will be necessary to
remove the fork head (see paragraph 5) and
shorten the lamp bracket tube by, say, 1/32
in. Alternatively, if the lamp bracket tube is
loose when the steering head is correctly
adjusted, it can be tightened by fitting an
additional steel washer (Part No. 35974)
beneath the rubber washer.
It is also possible that the steering head
cannot be adjusted because the main tube is
bottoming in the recess in the fork head in
which it fits. In this case the fork crown
clamp screws must be loosened, thus
permitting the main tubes to slide through
the fork crown. Do no forget to tighten the
fork head pinch bolts and the fork crown
clamp screws after adjusting the steering
head.
5. Removal of Facia Panel Fork Head,
Spring, etc.
To remove the Facia Panel Fork Head
for access to the lamp bracket tubes (or to
change the fork spring without disturbing
the bearings) proceed as follows:disconnect
all control cables at the handlebar end and
remove the headlamp from the lamp
brackets. The switch panel can conveniently
be removed from the back of the lamp so
that the body of the lamp can be removed
completely.
Now unscrew the two Fork Spring Scroll
Bolts from the fork head, unscrew the nuts
on the fork head clip bolt and the two main
tube clip bolts, remove the three clip bolt
sleeves and knock out the three clip bolts.
The facia panel fork head can now be
tapped gently upwards with a hide mallet or
a hammer and a wooden drift but care must
be taken to hit only the more solid parts of
the fork head, i.e. beneath the handlebar
clip and at the back of the main tubes,
avoiding the underside of the comparatively
thin portion in front of the speedometer.
After removal of the fork head the lamp
bracket tubes can be lifted straight off and
the springs can be withdrawn from the
upper end of the main tubes after
unscrewing the oil level plug and the nut
which secures the spring stud to the fork
end and knocking the spring stud upwards.
6. Removal of Main Tubes
To remove the main tubes first
dismantle the fork as described in
paragraph 2, then remove the facia panel
fork head and lamp bracket tubes as
described in paragraph 5. Now loosen the
fork crown clamp screws and knock the
main tubes out of the fork crown either
upwards or downwards as may be most
convenient. If the machine has been in an
accident and the tube is badly bent both
above and below the fork crown, it may be
necessary to cut through the tube with a
hacksaw before it can be withdrawn.
7. Reassembly of Parts
No difficulty should be experienced
with this.
When refitting the main tube, use
the lamp bracket tube as a guide to its
correct position in the fork crown. The
small shoulder some 1.1/2 in. from the
upper end of the tube should be flush with
the top of the lamp bracket tube when the
latter is in position on the fork crown. With
the main tube in this position, tighten the
fork crown clamp screws before fitting the
facia panel fork head.
If new oil seals have been fitted it may
be found that the action of the fork is very
stiff when the gland nuts are tightened
down fully. In this case the nuts may be
left half a turn or so slack until the seals
have freed off, after which they should be
tightened down. Note that the seal, must be
fitted with the larger bore uppermost, i.e.
with the scraping edges facing downwards.
When refitting the three clip bolts,
which secure the fork head to the main
tubes and steering stem, make sure that the
clip bolts and their sleeve, are correctly
fitted so that the cut-away portions of them
bear against the tubes. Any attempt to
tighten the nuts with the bolts or sleeves
incorrectly fitted may result in cracking the
facia panel fork head.
8. Lubrication
The lubrication of the fork bearings is
effected by the oil which forms the
hydraulic damping medium. The oil level
is fixed by a cross hole in the spring stud
leading to a drilled passage terminating in
the oil level plug. To fill each fork leg to
the correct level remove the plug screws
from the fork head and the oil level plugs
from the fork end. Pour oil in at the top
until it runs out at the bottom of the fork.
Wait till oil has stopped running and
replace level plugs and plug screws.
Recommended
grades
of
oil
are
Castrolite, Mobiloil Arctic, Essolube 20,
B.P. Energol S.A.E. 20, Shell X-100
20/20w.
www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com