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16
6.5.2.3. Solving ignition problems
If there are still problems after exchanging the spark plug and there
is no spark, follow these instructions:
• Check the spark-plug connector for any damage or moisture
and if necessary clean or exchange it.
Disconnect connector (G) - by doing this you’re deactivating the
oil-sensor-controller. The electrical connector must not touch the
crankcase during operation. Also check the oil level, because in this
condition there is no oil-level monitoring.
If the engine is running normally now, connect (G) while the motor
is operating. If the motor is still running the oil float was stuck - the
problem was just solved because the motor oil become warm and
lossen the stucked float. If the motor stalls when (G) is connected,
open (D) and restart (let G connected). If you cannot start, the oil-
sensor-controller is broken. If you can start, the oil sensor (float
switch) is broken. The oil sensor can only be exchanged by opening
the crankcase, from the outside only the cable connection to the oil
sensor is visible.
If that is not the problem open (H) (=contact between stop-switch
and ignition coil). Try to start the motor. If the ignition is not working
the cable to the switch or the switch itself have an electrical short
against ground. Solve the problem accordingly.
If there is still a problem remove the cover of the flywheel to get to
the ignition coil:
Disconnect the Faston-connector (M) - the cable coming from the
connector (H). If the ignition is working now, the cable has an elec-
trical short between (H) and (M). If that is the case, correct the pro-
blem.
If there is a problem, measure (M) against ground (crankcase). There
should be a resistance of 1,0-1,5 Ohm. Now measure (N) (=spark
plug connector) against ground. There should be a resistance of
10-11 kOhm. Check the state of the ignition cable (no frets, brittle-
ness etc. as well as proper assembly of the spark plug connector on
the ignition cable (tight fit). If necessary exchange damaged parts.
(M) may not have any connection to ground when the ignition is
“ON”. When the stop-/main-switch is in position “OFF” there must
be an electric short against the ground.
Lastly, check the permanent magnet at the flywheel. Remove the
pollutants and set up a distance at (P) of
EG4-0090-series: 0,2-0,4 mm
EG4-0210/0270/0420-series: 0,4-0,6 mm
between ignition coil and flywheel. The ignition magnet may not
grind against the flywheel. The distance of both sides (P) has to be
identical! The timing of the ignition is fixed and cannot be changed.
6.5.2.4. Starter malfunction
If the starter is spinning during startup (if the starter turns but the
motor does not turn with it) the starter gear is probably broken. In
that case, please contact your retailer.
If the starter does not react at all during startup, please consider
following instructions:
• Check the voltage of the battery
If the voltage is above 12V, please check the connection bet-
ween minus pole of the battery and the crankcase.
• Measure the Voltage at (K) (battery plus cable=the thick cable
connected to the starter - measurements are always conduc-
ted against the crankcase). There must be battery voltage. If
there is not, the cable connection between the battery and the
starter relais is loosen or broken.
• Measure the Voltage at (J). If the main-switch is set to “OFF”
or "ON" the voltage should be 0V - if it is set to “START” there
should be battery voltage. Exchange the damaged parts.
If the measured values for (J) and (K) are within the limits, the starter
itself is probably brocken and has to be exchanged.
If the measured values are not in order, check the connectors of the
startbox. If there is no mistake - open the startbox.
• Check the 5A fuse.
• If the fuse is in proper condition, measure the voltage on the
main-switch: White cable should be battery voltage - follow the
cable wiring and check the solder points.
• If the measured values are in order, measure the voltage on
the black-white cable. At key-position "OFF" there should be
0V. At key-position "ON" and "START" there should be battery
voltage.
6.5.2.5. Battery does not charge
If the motor has started up successfully, the starter battery should
be charged by the built-in dynamo. If this is not the case, follow
these instructions:
Check the circuit breaker at the starter box and press it. If the switch
triggered or triggers again (2A pushbutton fuse), the current trans-
ferred from the dynamo to the battery is too high. Either the battery
is worn or there is any shortcut against ground.
If the circuit breaker is ON, open the connector (I) (white to brown
cable) and start the engine. Measure at running engine and opened
connection (I) the voltage on white cable against crankcase.
Measures of the dynamo:
at engine speed (rpm)
1.500
2.000
3.000
Idle voltage before diode
V
AC
11,7
14,3
20,9
Shortcut current before diode
A
AC
0,57
0,58
0,59
Idle voltage after diode
V
DC
TRUE RMS
4,6
5,8
8,0
Shortcut current after diode
A
AC
TRUE RMS
0,49
0,52
0,58
The dynamo starts charging the battery at about 1000 rpm, although
the True RMS value of the direct current after the diode is only 5.8V.
The diode is now conductive at the peak-voltage point and charges
the battery.
The dynamo has a high inner resistance in order to be able to charge
the battery with little current and without charge controller while not
doing any damage to the battery by overcharging it.
D
G
H
I
J
K
M
O
P
N
