Solution 1) ELECTRIC SUPPLY IS OFF
Turn on the main circuit breaker. NOTE: If unit has been out of operation, first make sure that
the hot water circuit is free of all air pockets or else premature failure of the element will occur.
Solution 2) INSUFFICIENT WATER FLOW
Insure that the minimum flow rate of 0.8 gpm to switch on your heater is met. 0.8 gpm is
equivalent to filling a quart container in 18 seconds. Also check that the inlet filter screen is
clear from any debris. This is located in the brass inlet boss (see Fig 1).
Solution 3) CROSSOVER IN PLUMBING
Cold water mixing with the hot outlet flow can back pressure the heater, test by isolating the
Heater. Shut off the cold inlet supply to unit and open a hot water tap. There should be no flow.
Solution 4) WATER CONNECTIONS ARE REVERSED
Cold water inlet = right side, hot water outlet = left side.
Solution 5) ELEMENT BURNED OUT
TURN OFF THE MAIN BREAKER!
Using an ohmmeter test the resistance of the heating element across
the two threaded termination rods on top of the element. The
resistance reading should be under 10 ohms. If the resistance is
much greater than this value, call CEC for a replacement element.
SYMPTOM: NO HEAT OR LOW TEMPERATURE WITH
INDICATOR LIGHT ON
Solution 1) WATER FLOW TOO HIGH
Reduce the water flow by using an outlet ball valve. See page 9 for temperature rise at various
flow rates.
Solution 2) INCORRECT POWER SUPPLY
Make sure that the unit is connected to the voltage supply specifiedon the rating label on the the
front cover of the unit and no other.
Solution 3) ELEMENT BURNED OUT
TURN OFF THE MAIN BREAKER!
Repeat the steps from Solution 5 above.
Solution 4)THERMOSTAT ADJUSTMENT SCREW NOT TURNED UP
Turn thermostat adjustment screw(s) clockwise in small increments until the indicator light(s)
remain on. Take care not to force the screw past its stop position.
10
TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM: NO HEAT INDICATOR LIGHT OFF
