6. Tighten the blade clamping screw firmly with the blade wrench.
NOTE: Never engage the blade lock while saw is running, or engage in an effort to stop the tool. Never
turn the saw on while the blade lock is engaged. Serious damage to your saw will result.
TO rEPLAcE THE bLADE (FIG. 1-3)
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
Avoid contact with the blade teeth to prevent personal injury.
1. To loosen the blade clamping screw (B), depress the blade lock (A) and turn the saw spindle with the
blade wrench until the blade lock engages and the blade stops rotating. With the blade lock engaged,
turn the blade clamping screw clockwise with the blade wrench (screw has left-hand threads and
must be turned clockwise to loosen).
2. Remove the blade clamping screw (B) and outer clamp washer (C) only. Remove old blade.
3. Clean any sawdust that may have accumulated in the guard or clamp washer area and check the
condition and operation of the lower blade guard as previously outlined. Do not lubricate this area.
4. Select the proper blade for the application (see
Blades
). Always use blades that are the correct size
(diameter) with the proper size and shape center hole for mounting on the saw spindle. Always assure
that the maximum recommended speed (rpm) on the saw blade meets or exceeds the speed (rpm) of
the saw.
5. Follow steps 2 through 6 under
To Install the Blade
, making sure that the blade will rotate in the
proper direction.
bLADE
To minimize the risk of eye injury, always wear ANSI Z87.1 approved eye protection. Carbide
is a hard but brittle material. Foreign objects in the work piece such as wire or nails can cause tips to crack
or break. Only operate saw when proper saw blade guard is in place. Mount blade securely in proper rota-
tion before using, and always use a clean, sharp blade
NEvEr cut ferrous metals (those with any iron or steel content), masonry, glass or tile with
this saw. Damage to the saw and personal injury may result.
A dull blade will cause inefficient cutting, overload on the saw motor, excessive splintering and increase the
possibility of kickback. Change blades when it is no longer easy to push the saw through the cut, when
the motor is straining, or when excessive heat is built up in the blade. It is a good practice to keep extra
blades on hand so that sharp blades are available for immediate use. Dull blades can be sharpened in
most areas; see SAWS-SHARPENING in the yellow pages. Hardened gum on the blade can be removed
with kerosene, turpentine, or oven cleaner. Anti-stick coated blades can be used in applications where
excessive build-up is encountered, such as pressure treated and green lumber.
LOwEr bLADE GUArD
The lower blade guard is a safety feature which reduces the risk of serious personal injury.
Never use the saw if the lower guard is missing, damaged, misassembled or not working properly. Do not
rely on the lower blade guard to protect you under all circumstances. Your safety depends on following all
warnings and precautions as well as proper operation of the saw. Check lower guard for proper closing
before each use as outlined in Additional Specific Safety Rules. If the lower blade guard is missing or not
working properly, have the saw serviced before using. To assure product safety and reliability, repair, main-
tenance and adjustment should be performed by an authorized PORTER-CABLE service center or other
qualified service organization, always using identical replacement parts.
DO NOT LUbrIcATE THIS
ArEA. The hub has a dry film lubricated surface that does not need oiling.
TO ADJUST DEPTH-OF-cUT FOr NOrMAL cUTTING (FIG. 5)
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
Adjust the depth-of-cut so that the saw blade barely protrudes through the thickness of the workpiece.
To adjust:
1. Lift the depth adjustment locking lever (A), located at the rear of the saw.
2. Raise or lower the saw housing to the correct level.
NOTE: The upper guard (B) is marked in 1/4" increments for convenience in setting the depth of cut. Align
the depth segment mark (C) with the desired depth marking on the guard.
3. Press the depth-adjusting locking lever down firmly to lock the saw in the selected position.
TO ADJUST FOr bEvEL cUTS (FIG. 6)
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
1. Loosen the bevel-adjusting lever (A).
2. Tilt the saw base until the desired graduation line on the bevel segment (B) aligns with the indicator
(C) on the bracket.
3. Tighten the bevel-adjusting lever firmly.
4. For bevel cuts greater than 45
°, set the guide on the 45° mark. Lift the bevel-adjusting lever into the
slot (D) and move the saw base to the greater angle. Tighten the bevel-adjusting lever firmly.
0° POSITIvE STOP (FIG. 7 - 9)
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
The saw is equipped with an adjustable positive stop at 0°. Check the accuracy of this stop periodically.
To adjust:
1. Loosen the bevel adjustment lever (A) Fig. 7, and position the base for a 0° cut. Confirm that the bevel
stop sleeve (B) is against the 0° stop screw (C).
2. Turn the saw upside down, retract the lower blade guard, and check to see that the blade is square
to the base (Fig. 8).
3. To adjust, loosen the bevel-adjustment knob (A) Fig. 7. While keeping the bevel stop (B) in contact
with the stop screw (C), use a screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw (A) Fig.9 until the blade is
square.
LINE-OF-cUT INDIcATOr (FIG. 10)
Line-of-cut indicator slots (A) are provided at the front of the saw base. The right slot is used to follow a
line when making a 0° cut. The left slot is used to follow a line when making a 45° cut. The straight side of
the notch indicates the cut line.
USING THE ExHAUST NOZZLE
DO NOT direct sawdust toward yourself or others. To avoid injury from flying sawdust, keep
the exhaust nozzle either in the forward position or in the closed position.
DO NOT insert foreign objects
into the exhaust opening.
The exhaust nozzle in the closed position (Fig. 11) directs the sawdust to the rear of the saw. The exhaust
nozzle pointing forward (Fig. 12) directs the sawdust to the front. To change the position of the nozzle,
push down and turn the nozzle to the new position. An accessory vacuum hose assembly is available for
connecting the exhaust nozzle in the forward position directly to a shop-type vacuum cleaner.
INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL rIP GUIDE (FIG. 13)
To avoid personal injury and damage to workpiece, extend the rip guide through both slots
in the base.
To avoid personal injury and damage to workpiece, extend the rip guide through both slots
in the base.
1. Insert the rip guide (A) through the slots (B). Slide the guide in until it extends through the both slots
in the sawbase.
2. Place the compression spring on the thumb screw (C) (supplied with the rip guide), and thread into
the hole in the saw base.
DO NOT TIGHTEN.
3. Adjust the rip guide for the desired width of cut and tighten the thumb screw.
HOw TO USE THE SAw
Do not operate your tool on a current on which the voltage is not within correct limits. Do not
operate tools rated AC only on DC current. To do so may seriously damage the tool.
If the guard binds or is sluggish, return the saw to your nearest authorized Porter-Cable
service center for repair.
For maximum protection, effective control of this powerful saw requires two-handed opera-
tion. support the work properly and hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of control which could cause injury.
Refer to Figure 14 for the proper way to hold the saw.
Stay alert and maintain a firm grip on the saw. Release the switch immediately if the blade
binds or the saw stalls. Keep your blade sharp. Properly support panels (Fig. 15). Use a fence or a straight
edge guide when ripping. DO NOT force the tool. DO NOT remove the saw from the workpiece while the
blade is moving.
To help reduce the risk of personal injury, always clamp work. Don’t try to hold short pieces
by hand! Remember to support cantilevered and over hanging material. Use caution when sawing material
from below.
Be sure that the saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut. Starting the
saw with blade against material to be cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback and personal
injury.
kIckbAck
When the saw blade becomes pinched or twisted in the cut, kickback can occur. The saw is thrust
rapidly back toward the operator. When the blade is pinched or bound tightly by the kerf closing
down, the blade stalls and the motor reaction drives the unit backward. When the blade becomes
twisted or misaligned in the cut, the teeth at the back edge of the blade can dig into the top sur-
face of the wood causing the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back toward the operator.
Kickback is more likely to occur when any of the following conditions exist.
1. IMPrOPEr wOrkPIEcE SUPPOrT
A. Sagging or improper lifting of the cut off piece can cause pinching of the blade and lead to
kickback.
B. Cutting through material supported at the outer ends only can cause kickback. As the material
weakens it sags, closing down the kerf and pinching the blade.
C. Cutting off a cantilevered or overhanging piece of material from the bottom up in a vertical direc-
tion can cause kickback. The falling cut off piece can pinch the blade.
D. Cutting off long narrow strips (as in ripping) can cause kickback. The cut off strip can sag or twist
closing the kerf and pinching the blade.
E. Snagging the lower guard on a surface below the material being cut momentarily reduces
operator control.
THE SAw cAN LIFT PArTIALLY OUT OF THE cUT INcrEASING THE
cHANcE OF bLADE TwIST.
2. IMPrOPEr DEPTH OF cUT SETTING ON SAw
To make the most efficient cut, the blade should protrude only far enough to expose 1/2 of a tooth.
This allows the shoe to support the blade and minimizes twisting and pinching in the material. See
the section titled
Cutting Depth Adjustment
.
3. bLADE TwISTING (MISALIGNMENT IN cUT)
A. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail, or a hard grain area can cause the blade to twist.
B. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on the marked line) can cause blade twist
C. Over-reaching or operating the saw with poor body control (out of balance), can result in twisting
the blade.
D. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting can result in blade twist.
E. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist if it is not done carefully.
4. MATErIALS THAT rEQUIrE ExTrA ATTENTION
A. Wet lumber
B. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
C. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with preservatives or anti-rot chemicals)
5. USE OF DULL Or DIrTY bLADES
Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To compensate, an operator will usually push harder
which further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have
insufficient body clearance which increases the chance of binding and increased loading.
6. LIFTING THE SAw wHEN MAkING bEvEL cUT
Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper cutting techniques - especially guidance of the
saw. Both blade angle to the shoe and greater blade surface in the material increase the chance for
binding and misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. rESTArTING A cUT wITH THE bLADE TEETH JAMMED AGAINST THE MATErIAL
The saw should be brought up to full operating speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the
unit has been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could
cause kickback. Refer to the sections on
Operation
for procedures and techniques that will minimize the
occurrence of kickback.
wOrkPIEcE SUPPOrT
Hands should be kept away from cutting area to reduce the risk of injury.
The power cord should be positioned clear of the cutting area so that it will not get caught
or hung up on the work and to prevent electric shock.
To avoid kickback, DO support board or panel NEAR the cut. DON’T support board or panel away from
the cut.
When operating the saw, keep the cord away from the cutting area to prevent electric
shock.
It is important to support the work properly and to hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of
control which could cause personal injury.
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
Place the work with its “good” side - the one on which appearance is most important - down. The saw
cuts upward, so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when you saw it.
crOSS-cUTTING
Cutting directly across the grain of a piece of lumber is called crosscutting. Position the work so that the
cut will be on the left.
rIPPING
Cutting wood lengthwise is referred to as ripping. This operation is performed in the same manner as
crosscutting with the exception of supporting the workpiece. If the workpiece is supported on a large table,
bench, or floor, place several pieces of scrap stock approximately one inch thick beneath the workpiece
to allow clearance for the portion of the saw blade that extends through the material (Fig. 16). When using
saw horses, place 2 x 4’s lengthwise between the horses and the large sheets of paneling or thin plywood
to prevent the workpiece from sagging in the center.
For narrow rip cuts, use the rip guide (available as an accessory). Guide the saw by keeping the inner face
of the rip guide (Fig. 17) tight against the edge of the board.
For making wider cuts (plywood and wide sheets), tack or clamp a wooden guide strip to guide the left
edge of the saw base (Fig. 16).
NOTE: Adjust the depth-of-cut to allow for the thickness of the wooden guide strip.
bEvEL cUTTING
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-
up can cause injury.
Use the lever (A) Fig. 19 provided on the lower blade guard when you have to retract
the lower blade guard manually.
Bevel cuts are made in the same manner as crosscuts and rip cuts. The difference is that the blade is set
at an angle between 0° and 45° (Fig. 18).
The bevel cut made at an angle to the edge of a board is called a compound cut. Certain compound cuts
may require you to manually retract the lower blade guard to allow the blade to enter into and/or through
the cut.
POckET cUTS (PLUNGE cUTTING)
Use the lever (A) Fig. 20 provided on the lower guard when you have to retract the guard
manually.
Keep your hands and fingers away from the blade.
Let the saw come to a complete stop before removing it from the workpiece.
Start the motor and lower the blade into the work. After the blade has cut through, and the base rests flat
on the work, follow the line to the corner.
A pocket cut is one which must be made inside the area of the workpiece and not starting from the edge.
Mark the area clearly with lines on all sides. Start near the corner of one side and place the front edge of
the saw base firmly on the workpiece. Hold the saw up so that the blade clears the material. Confirm that
you have adjusted the blade properly for the depth-of-cut. Push the lower blade guard lever all the way
back so the blade is exposed (Fig. 20).
Use a keyhole or bayonet saw to cut clean corners.
TrOUbLESHOOTING
For assistance with your tool, visit our website at www.porter-cable.com for a list of service centers, or call
the Porter-Cable Customer Care Center at (888) 848-5175.
MAINTENANcE
To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before
installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-up
can cause injury.
Fig. 1
A
A
b
c
Fig. 5
Fig. 11
A
Fig.10
Fig. 12
Fig. 14
A
b
c
D
Fig. 6
Fig. 8
A
b c
Fig. 13
Fig. 7
b
c
A
A
Fig. 9
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
A
Fig. 19
Fig. 15
Fig. 18
Fig. 20
A
Fig. 2
E
Fig. 4
b
c
D
Fig. 3
SPINDLE
brOcHE
EJE
bLADE/LAME/HOJA
b
c
D
