Check your soldering tool to make sure the tip is clean and in good condition.
Preheat the soldering unit to about 600°F. Start with one end of the new red wire,
and using a quick-melting solder, connect the red wire to the top solder rectangle.
Make sure you get a good solder join; the solder should have a shiny finish. Now
solder the new black wire to the second solder rectangle. BE CAREFUL NOT TO
SOLDER THE TWO MOUNTING PADS TOGETHER! You do not want to short the
connection. What you have done is to create a new energy route ignoring the four
diodes and giving BIG SOUND™ the full voltage from the power source. This
completes the modification; you use the two new wires for power input to the sound
board and the two yellow cylinder wires for chuffing input to the sound board. (You
can remove the black and red output wires from the Shay PCB connector, if you wish;
they serve no purpose after the bypass modification.) Reattach the PCB to its
designated spot inside the tender body.
Although Option 2 does not free extra space inside the tender, there is still plenty
of room to accommodate all the BIG SOUND™ kit components.
The Bachmann Shay BIG SOUND™ board is depicted below to help you
correctly wire your unit. You will find more detail in the following pages of this
booklet and also in the standard manual included in your kit. IMPORTANT NOTE:
after wiring BIG SOUND™ and before putting your tender back together, test to
be sure you hear two whistle toots at start-up and three whistle toots in reverse. If
the reverse is true, swap the wires in positions 1 and 2 on block P1. Sometime the
wire pairs from the engine block are not soldered to same solder pad each time.
SECTION 3: THE BACHMANN SHAY BOARD AND ITS COMPONENTS
P1
P2
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
FP
BSHAY
XX
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
FS
BSHAY
XX
S
R
dimensions: 3.37" L x 1.25" W x 0.75" H
P3
P1
Terminal Block
P2
Terminal Block
P3
Terminal Block
Page 5
