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OPTION 2: BYPASSING THE POWER INPUT DIODES
This is not as difficult as it sounds!
You will need a section of red coated
wire and another of black coated
wire of sufficient length to reach from
the PCB to the sound board. The
gauge is not critical, although you may
find 22AWG or finer more pliable
and easier to use. Strip each end of
both wires (and tin them if you wish).
Remove the PCB from its mounting inside
the tender (one phillips screw holds it in
place) and gently pull it away from inside the housing. Turn the PCB over so you are
looking at it with the part number along the bottom of
the board, as shown in the sketch to the right (all the
power input wires may be black, but usually
each pair contains one red and one black wire).
The wires restrict movement somewhat, but
orient the board as best you can. From this
view along the right hand side, you will see
four small rectangular-shaped solder points. The
two rectangles at the top of the board are the
terminals you need to modify.
BACK OF CONNECTOR BOARD
(Small circles and rectangles
show PCB solder points.)
G 8 1 1 X - P C B 0 2
yellow
output wires
black & red
output wires
power input
wires
cylinder input
wires
red
black
red
black
red
black
