Page 6
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Construction Manual
divided by the upper spar. Let’s
tackle the front section first - this
is the area from the leading edge
back to upper spar.
Using 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
sheet, measure and cut a section
that covers this area and will rest
on top of ribs R2 and R3. Make
sure that the grain of the wood is “cross-grained” - that is running
along the length of the wing, from R2 to R3.
On the front edge, lightly sand a
bevel as shown here. This will allow
the sheeting to fit up against the
leading edge.
Now glue the sheeting in place - first
by gluing it to the leading edge and
the ribs as shown here.
Once that glue has cured, apply glue to
the top of the ribs and the back edge
of the sheeting. Press this sheeting in
place and secure it until the glue has
cured.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (top center sheeting)
Now you need to sheet the rear
portion of the center section.
This will require edge-gluing
two pieces of 1/16 balsa sheet
together to make a slightly longer
piece of wood - and making two
of them (one for each side).
When edge gluing the sheeting
pieces together, first make sure the edges are flat (give a quick,
swipe or two with a sanding block). Then tape the two pieces
together as shown here with a piece of tape. As you lift the
sheeting from the board you’ll see
that the tape will act as a hinge
allowing you to put a small amount
of adhesive in the joint. When
the adhesive is applied, place the
sheeting back down on the waxed
paper, so that it’s flat (as shown in
the photo). When cured, you’ll now
have a single, longer piece of sheeting.
Carefully measure and cut these. Test fit and sand as necessary to
obtain a good fit between the upper D1 and WH7. When satisfied
with the fit, glue these sheets in position, one at a time.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (wing dowels and DG)
Locate the 6” piece of 1/4” dowel (not the 3/32” dowel that will
be used later on in the elevator
construction. Measure and cut two
2-1/4” pieces. Round both ends of
both pieces and set them aside.
Now locate DG from LP1 and tape
in place to the rear of the wing,
right in the center - use the pre-
etched DG center line to help align it exactly to the center of the
wing. With it properly in place, DG’s angle will match the dihedral
of the wing.
Now using a 1/4” drill, you can make two holes into the center of
the trailing edge so the dowels can be installed. Only drill through
the trailing edge stock and the J2 pieces - DO NOT DRILL INTO
THE WH6 PIECES which already have pre-cut 1/4” holes.
Remove DG and then insert the dowels through the trailing edge
until they protrude about an 3/16” out of the trailing edge as
shown.Glue both dowels in position.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (top center sheeting)
Before we tackle the bottom center sheeting, we have to transfer
the wing bolt locations to the top sheeting so it can be trimmed.
We found the easiest way to do this is to use a sharpened #2
pencil, but probably not in the way you think.
Placing the pencil in the
pre-cut holes in the WH4/
WH5 assembly as shown
here, and making sure it’s
held straight, you can use
the pencil to gently push
through the wing’s upper
sheeting.
All you need is enough of
the graphite to protrude through the
wood so you know where to mark
the clearance holes. Do this for both
wing bolt locations.
Now you can place the wing back on
your building surface, right side up.
Locate one of the H2 pieces from
LP2 and use it as a guide. Center
the cutout circle in H2 over each of
the pencil holes you made. Now, trace
around the rounded outside portion
of H2 to make half a circle, flip H2
around, re-aligning it and then trace
the other half of the circle.
Now using a hobby knife or a
rotary tool, carefully trim away
the wood to make two clearance
holes for the wing bolts to pass
through.
Step 25 - Wing Assembly (bottom center sheeting)
Now it’s time to sheet
bottom of the wing’s
center section.
Using the same
techniques as you
did for the top side,
measure, cut and sheet
the bottom of the
wing’s center section
with the same 1/16” x
4” balsa sheeting
