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                  Construction Manual 

www.oldschoolmodels.com 

Page 15

in-line with the pushrods, 

and that the line of holes 

where the clevises attach 

are positioned over the 

hinge line.

For the average pilot, we 

recommend that clevises 

are attached to the 

second outermost hole 

on each control horn.

On the plans you’ll see a 

callout suggesting a spot 

where a hole needs to be 

cut in the wing’s bottom 

sheeting. This hole allows the 

aileron servo wires to pass 

through the sheeting and exit 

the wing. Make these roughly 

1/2” to 3/4” in diameter.

Cut into LP4 are SM3’s 

(elevator, rudder and  throttle,  

servo mounts).

As we provided with the 

aileron mounts,  there are two 

slightly different sizes to  help 

accommodate the slightly 

different sized servos. The 

pieces that are slightly larger 

are designed with the etched 

circle.

You’ll need glue two SM3’s on top of each other to form a single 

mount. Then mount your servo to the SM3 assembly. Now slip this 

in place as shown here for the elevator and rudder servo locations. 

There is a bit of extra room in the TR1 cutouts to allow for precise 

positioning of these mounts. Once you’ve figured out the correct 

spot, mark where they should go, then remove the SM3, apply 

glue and fasten it in place. Do this for both the elevator and rudder 

servos. If using a throttle servo, mount it further forward on TR1, 

closer to F3.

Finish the installation of your radio gear by adding the receiver, 

•  Now remove the canopy and cut 

along the marks you just made 

to separate the canopy into two 

sections.

• Remove the canopy assemblies 

and paint them to match your 

Mambo’s color scheme.

• Once the paint has dried (and 

after the airframe has been covered, permanently attach the 

canopy assemblies to the airframe with glue.

•  If you’re going to add a pilot figure (not included), now is the 

time to test-fit, then glue it in place. You can pickup a pilot at 

your local hobby shop and for a few bucks you can add a nice 

look to that front cockpit area.

•  Give both pieces of the canopy a quick wash in warm, soapy 

water.

•  Use a bit of canopy glue to attach both canopy piece in place to 

the fuselage, and the canopy assemblies. So they won’t move 

while the glue cures, hold them in place with a bit of low-tack 

masking tape. 

Step 82 - Attach the Control Surfaces

Now is the time to attach the rest the control surfaces to the 

airframe, by gluing the hinges in position with thin C/A, just as you 

did with the elevator.

Step 83 - Landing Gear (main gear, straps)

The pre-bent landing gear (or 

landing gear from Horizon’s 

Apprentice) slides into the 

pre-cut slot on in LG3. Slide 

it all the way, then position a 

landing gear strap on each 

side as shown in this photo. 

Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill 

through the holes in each strap, then use four of the included 2-56 

x 3/4” self-tapping screws to attach the straps to the fuselage.

Use the included 1/8” i.d. wheel collars to hold each wheel (not 

included) on the axles. For a maintenance free installation, file 

a small flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar 

touches. Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the 

screw from loosening over time.

The following steps will show various pieces and parts which 

are not included in your Mambo. These are some of the parts 

we referenced as “needed to purchase” towards the front of 

this manual.

The parts shown in the photos were those we had on hand. 

Please pay no attention to the brand names of these parts as 

aren’t recommending any particular brand. 

Step 84 - Radio and pushrod installation

Shown here a few photos of the pushrods and radio gear installation 

in one of our Mambo prototypes. These are shown only for a guide, 

as each installation is unique, and the radio system you have might 

require adjustments from what you see here.

Make sure that when installing the control horns, they are placed 

Summary of Contents for Mambo

Page 1: ...at is in first class condition a correctly sized power system and components electronics batteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so...

Page 2: ...sheet 1 BP9 laser cut 3 32 x 4 x 11 5 sheet 2 BP10 laser cut 3 32 x 4 x 24 sheet 1 BP11 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 sheet 1 BP12 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 sheet 1 BPTIP laser cut 1 4 x 4 x 9 sheet 1 3 32 x...

Page 3: ...ok a little different in some steps Online Supplementary Photos We realize that the smaller black and white photos in this manual might not show some of the steps as clearly as you might want So we ve...

Page 4: ...hould face R2 and be at the top as shown here Make sure it is perpendicular to R3 then glue in position Step 8 Wing Assembly WH4 and WH5 Locate one WH4 and one WH5 from LP1 First position WH4 into R3...

Page 5: ...is firmly seated while the glue cures Also make sure to remove any excess epoxy that may drip on the face of R1 Epoxy is easier to clean off before it cures by using a paper towel lightly soaked in a...

Page 6: ...on Measure and cut two 2 1 4 pieces Round both ends of both pieces and set them aside Now locate DG from LP1 and tape in place to the rear of the wing right in the center use the pre etched DG center...

Page 7: ...on of the tail surfaces Prepare your work area Now tape the horizontal stabilizer plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board Step 29 Horizontal Stab Assembly S1 Locate both S1 s from...

Page 8: ...TR1 has an etched circle on the top surface at the front edge Since you re using the Apprentice motor and motor mount hold F3 as shown top up on the building board then slip TR1 in at an angle making...

Page 9: ...place Take care that these pieces are orientated the right way when glued to FS2 When correct both LG2 s will face each other and the tabs of LG1 will be firmly seated in FS2 Step 42 Fuselage Assembl...

Page 10: ...F2 to obtain a secure fit F2 needs to be flush against the front of TR1 and the tabs from both fuselage sides need to be inserted into the pre cut slots in F2 When satisfied on how these pieces go to...

Page 11: ...e Assembly rear cap Back when you made the wings the leading edge was created from 5 16 square stock Use a piece of this stock to form the rear fuselage cap This piece will fit between the fuselage si...

Page 12: ...ach the stab in place Using scrap 3 16 square balsa cut two pieces roughly 3 in long From the underside of the fuse glue one of the strips in on each side where the fuselage and stab join this will st...

Page 13: ...unding the corners if you d like Step 74 Elevator Slot For the most of the Mambo build we ve tried to do as much engineering and pre cutting for you But for this step you ll need to do a little bit of...

Page 14: ...motor you ll need to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the rear of the fuselage We choose to cut a hole just forward of the stab on the underside of the fuselage Logos numbers etc If you want...

Page 15: ...t fit then glue it in place You can pickup a pilot at your local hobby shop and for a few bucks you can add a nice look to that front cockpit area Give both pieces of the canopy a quick wash in warm s...

Page 16: ...ll need to attach your engine mount to the firewall Carefully measure where the mount should be attached making sure your engine s crankshaft will be in line with the thrust line noted on the plans On...

Page 17: ...from idle to full throttle and back Also ensure the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer s instructions and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when adjusted Check all th...

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Page 19: ...Construction Manual www oldschoolmodels com Page 19 APPENDIX A...

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