©2019 Moustache Model Works, LLC
4
20cc DHC
-
2 Beaver Instruction Manual
Building Notes (continued)
You will notice the manual shows several lightening holes in the flaps, ailerons, elevator, rudder, and fuse-
lage top. These were tried in the second prototype, which was used for creating this manual. After com-
pletion, we decided the weight savings was not enough to warrant the potential reduction in scale appear-
ance, so they were removed for production.
Floats are probably the most important option for any DHC
-
2 Beaver. As of this writing (January 2019),
the floats for this airplane have not been developed, but the float mounts have been incorporated into the
build. These mounts are not accessible after the airplane is built, so make sure you install them during
construction if you have any interest in installing floats once they are available.
Several exterior parts will require painting: the cowl, windshield hatch, optional upper carb intake, oil cool-
er, landing gear fairings, and possibly the tail cone and rudder fairing. If using a gas (petrol) or electric
power system, we have found Krylon brand spray paints to be easy to use and quite durable. If you need
a specific paint match and have spray equipment available, common latex paint from the local big
-
box
home improvement store works well, is available in sample sizes, and can be matched to any covering
you bring to the store. In this case, it
’
s good to use a clear coat, again such as Krylon, although we
’
ve had
mixed results spraying Krylon (which is acrylic) over latex. If you
’
re using a glow engine, Wings West
makes some fantastic paint that perfectly matches both MonoKote and Ultracote, but it requires clear coat
to be fuel proof.
If using a gasoline engine, the electrical power system can be simplified by using an ignition battery elimi-
nator circuit or iBEC. This simple component enables a single battery to power both the radio system and
the ignition, while also providing a transmitter
-
switched ignition kill. If HV
-
capable servos are used, a sin-
gle 2S Li
-
Po battery can provide all the power required, thus saving weight and complexity.
Due to variations in hardware, it
’
s possible that the included blind nuts may not fit perfectly into the laser
-
cut holes of some wooden parts. If this happens, simply drill out the holes to fit.
Recommended Tools
FLAT building surface, T
-
pins
Sanding block(s)
-
next to a flat surface, probably the most important tool in the shop. We use a piece of
1/2”
-
3/4”
plywood cut to
3”
x
11”
to accept 1/3 of a sheet of sandpaper. Use a good
-
quality ceramic abra-
sive and apply 120 grit on one side and 80 grit on the other using contact cement like 3M77.
Hobby knife with No. 11 blades (buy in bulk, part number EXL22611A)
Rotary tool (Dremel) with sanding drum, cutoff wheel
Electric drill and drill bits
Allen wrenches, both SAE and metric
Slotted and Philips screwdriver sets, several sizes
Pliers, regular and needle
-
nose
Adjustable wrench
Razor plane or buck knife
Steel rule
Wax paper
Fine
-
point permanent marker
Soldering iron/gun (for soldering connectors if using an electric power system)
4 1/2”
Tapered palette knife (recommended for mixing and applying epoxy)
Limit of Liability
Responsibility for safe assembly and operation of this kit depends entirely upon the builder and operator. As Mous-
tache Model Works, LLC has no control over the assembly, setup, modification, use, or misuse of this product, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury caused by its use or misuse.
