Model Shipways Charles W.Morgan Instruction Manual Download Page 27

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eyebolt in place.

Britannia spider bands may need their
holes filed before they will slip on the
masts. It may also be necessary to ream
their belaying pin holes. Option: Add
the belaying pins before installing the
spider bands.

Note:

The mainmast spider band is high

above the deck, probably so it won’t
interfere with the fife rail. This is unusu-
al, but that’s how it is on the real ship.
Sailors belayed lines by climbing on the
fife rail.

Fairleads, and Stay Leads:

The fore and

mainmasts have wooden fairleads for
running lines, in addition to cleats and a
chock for the main and mizzenstays.
Add these per the rigging plans.

Mast Assembly:

With parts made and pre-

fitted, assemble tops, caps, crosstrees, and
trestletrees on the lower masts, topmasts,
and topgallant masts. Before gluing, check
to make sure the lower mast, topmast,
and topgallant mast align. Check the pro-
file and fore and aft views. Adjust the
upper mast heel holes if necessary.

Option:

Some modelers like to build mast

assemblies as they rig; install lower
masts, do the shrouds and lower stays,
then add the topmasts, etc. Just keep
checking the alignment at each level.

Mast Wedges and Mast Installation:

laser-cut ring represents the mast coat
(Figure 6-8). Shape these parts by filing
the edge. Slip a mast coat over the mast
before stepping it. Add slivers of wood
as necessary to jam the mast in the hole.
Check the alignment forward, aft, and
athwartships, so it matches the plans.
Finally, slide the mast coat down and
glue to the deck.

The foremast coat is shaped differently
from the main and mizzen coats. This
was observed from photographs.

3. Building and Installing

the Bowsprit and Jibboom

Make the bowsprit from square strip-
wood. It has an unusual shape with a
flat top. Taper the wood, then cut the
tenon for the cap (Figure 6-9). Although
the bowsprit cap is laser-cut, enlarge
and angle its holes and taper the top
and bottom edges. The jibboom is a sim-
ple tapered spar. Drill holes to represent
sheaves for the stays.

Add the bees and various eyebolts for

rigging. Assemble the cap and jibboom
on the bowsprit. Be careful and align it
correctly before gluing. Mortise the aft
end of the jibboom into the block at the
bow as shown on the plans.

Insert the bowsprit through the opening in
the bow, seat it between the bitts. Check
the side angle and make sure it lines up
with the centerline.

Dolphin Striker:

Hook the dolphin striker

into the proper eyebolt on the bowsprit
cap. It can hang loose until rigging begins.

4. Building the Yards

The yards are made now, but installed
as rigging progresses. Footropes are
included at this point, because they are
easier to do with yards in hand. They
and spar details are shown on the plans
(Figure 6-10). Paint the yards as they are
finished. Then they will be ready to
mount when rigging starts.

5. Building the Spanker

Gaff and Boom

Complete these spars in hand as much

Fig. 6-4 Making Mast Iron Bands

To form wrap around
drill rod or dowel
same diameter as
spar it fits

Option glue paper
strip on spar

Solder - this can

represent the bolted

flange

Install band, then drill holes in
spar for eyebolts - glue

Eyebolt

Brass strips