Painting and Staining the Model
7
for backing. (Avoid softwoods, as these
flare the exit hole.) To prevent the bit
from wandering, mark the spot with a
small center punch. Lubricate the bit with
light oil and drill slowly to avoid break-
age. The brass will become hot, so clamp
the pieces to the drill press table or hold
them down with a wooden stick. Do not
touch the brass! If possible, keep the
speed of the drill under 2000 RPM. Any
higher speed causes excessive heat and
small bits will easily break.
Until recently, modelers used pure silver
solder to avoid the corrosive qualities of
lead in soft solder. Today, many solders
are lead free. They’re composed of tin
and antimony, are strong, and melt at
less than 450º F. Some brands are mixed
with 3% or 4% silver, but still melt easily.
Consequently, no reason exists to use
pure silver solder (melts at 1300º F).
The key to soldering is keeping the
brass clean. Use a solvent, lightly sand,
or both. Once the parts are cleaned,
don’t touch them. Your fingers will
leave greasy spots. Soldering is easy if
your work is set up properly. First,
immobilize the parts in a fixture or
other holding device, then add just
enough flux to the joint to do the job.
Solder flows where flux is applied.
Next, heat the joint with a small torch or
pencil soldering iron. This sequence is
important. The larger the parts, the
longer it takes to heat the brass and melt
the solder. Remove excess solder with
needle files. The joint should look like
the real thing, not a big glob of fillets.
Beginning this manual with directions
on applying finishes may seem strange.
Not so! Much time and effort can be
saved and more professional results
obtained if the finishing process is car-
ried out during construction. Proper
timing in applying finishes and using
masking tape to define painted edges
should eliminate unsightly glue marks
and splotchy stained surfaces. Take
advantage of these general suggestions:
Paint
Use flat finish model paints manufac-
tured by Floquil, Polly-S, Testors,
Humbrol, or Model Masters. Jo Sonja
artists’ paints (used by bird carvers) or
Holbein Acryla Gouache are also accept-
able. They are a combination acrylic-
gouache. Sometimes the required color is
available only in gloss. To subdue the
shine, spray on a clear, flat finish. Do not
apply a lacquer finish over acrylics. It
will blister the paint. If you intend to air-
brush the paint, always use the manufac-
turer’s recommended thinner. Floquil
makes railroad, military, and marine col-
ors, and each has its own thinner. Note:
The latest thinners and paints are com-
patible with plastics. Floquil’s Dio-Sol
thinner, however, was formulated for
lacquers and attacks plastic.
Paint Scheme
The plans show
Charles W. Morgan’s
color
scheme currently used at Mystic Seaport.
It consists primarily of black, white, and
light ochre.
To obtain light ochre, mix three parts Floquil
yellow ochre with seven parts white.
Primer
Floquil’s gray primer will highlight
scratches and other defects. Gray works
better than white for this. Prime all metal
fittings and woodwork to be painted. Do
not prime parts to be stained or var-
nished. Lightly sand the primed items.
Use a hobby spackling compound, such
as Pic-n-Patch, or DAP, to fill any scratch-
es and defects, then re-prime.
Stains and Finishes
Tone wood with Floquil or Minwax
stains. After staining, protect natural
finished wood with a low sheen
polyurethane varnish or Floquil finish-
es. An oil-resin mix such as natural
Minwax is also acceptable.
Brushes and Procedures
Use quality soft sable or synthetic hair
artist brushes. A small pointed brush is
good for details. For the hull, use a 1/4”
to 1/2” flat brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a
tack rag. Thin paint to a consistency that
eliminates brush strokes, but doesn’t
run. Apply in smooth, even, overlap-
ping strokes. Light colors will cover the
primer in four or five coats, and dark
colors in maybe two. Check the finish
between applications, and sand or add
spackle to eliminate blemishes.
Use masking tape wherever two colors
meet. Electricians’ black plastic tape is
ideal. It leaves a crisp edge and is not
overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape.
Its edge is wrinkled and paint may run
underneath. Office and art supply stores
sell Scotch Magic Plus Removable
Transparent Tape 811. It, too, is excellent
for masking, removes easily, and does-
n’t chip off paint when peeled.
However, don’t reuse it, for it doesn’t
adhere well the second time around.
Airbrushing
Airbrushing with any of Floquil’s or
Model Masters’ solvent-based paints is
easy, but the fumes are toxic. Spray only
in a ventilated booth or do it outdoors.
While Floquil’s Polly S and Model
Masters’ acrylics are not toxic, they are
difficult to airbrush. Always use the rec-
ommended thinner. Thinning with
water causes surface tension problems.
Even when the recommended thinner is
employed, acrylics do not cover well,
are spitty, and clog the airbrush.
Experiment on your own. Some model-
ers are successful spraying acrylics, oth-
ers have poor results.
