boom. When not in use, sails are furled
(bundled on the yard, boom, or mast).
Clew lines pull up the corners of a
square sail, leechlines pull up the sides,
and
buntlines
pull up the belly for furling
the sail.
Brails
are like buntlines, except
they pull loose-footed fore-and-aft sails
toward the mast for furling.
Bowlines
,
attached to the sides of a square sail, pull
it forward. These are used primarily on
18th century and older ships.
11.
Reef bands:
Horizontal reinforcing
bands on the sail. They have short
lengths of rope called
reef points
. In
heavy weather, sailors tie the reef points
to a yard or boom to shorten the sail.
12.
Parrels or parrals:
Lines or devices for
holding yards, booms, and gaffs to their
respective masts and spars. A
truss
,
jeer
,
and
sling
are similar to a parrel. These
are lines or iron fittings holding a yard
up and against the mast. They are most
common on the stationary lower yards.
13.
Braces:
Lines attached to the ends of
yards for directing their angles and hold-
ing them taut.
Lifts
are standing or run-
ning lines for holding yards when low-
ered. A
topping lift
is a line holding up the
end of a boom when the gaff is down or
absent.
Vangs
, port and starboard lines,
prevent a gaff from swinging sideways.
1. Rigging Options
Like the real ship, the model can be
rigged four ways. The plans cover the
details. It’s your choice, but consider
these comments.
Full set of sails including fore-and-aft and
square sails:
Not many modelers go to
this extreme. It’s a good approach, if
the objective is to own one model like
that. However, the mass of sails
obscures most spar and deck details.
Sails look better on a ship at sea.
Sails furled, yards lowered on their lifts:
Here is a pleasing compromise. Reality
is maintained without sacrificing detail.
Sails furled and hoisted
: This creates the
illusion of a ship in port with some
sails still drying after a day’s run. Mix
furled sails with full open ones, or sails
with yards partially down. Use bunt-
lines and clewlines to partially pull up
square sails. Possibilities abound, so
look for a pleasing effect. Study paint-
ings for ideas. Marine artist John
Stobart’s work is an ideal reference.
No sails, yards lowered on their lifts:
Now
the ship is in port with her sails
removed for repairs. Most modelers
choose this approach, and beginners
should definitely opt for it.
2. Using the Detail and
Rigging Plans
Sheets 5 and 6 show the masts and
spars with attendant rigging. They are
drawn so every line is clear and its
belaying point known. Study them and
have a complete picture of each rig
before starting. Do this and rigging will
proceed smoothly.
3. Rigging Line and Block Sizes
Because more line diameters are shown
on the plans then provided in the kit,
use the following guide:
Use every diameter available to enhance
the model’s scalelike appearance.
Additional diameter lines are commer-
cially available. Some modelers substi-
tute the kit’s nylon cordage with linen
30
Fig. 7-3 Stropping Model Blocks
Twist
With hook
Wire strop
Line strop
Slip knot then glue
Glue then cut off
Seize
Sail cloth
Tuck corner and
sew by hand
Pencil lines
then sew
seams
Mark with pencil
Iron before sewing
Fig. 7-4 Sailmaking
Hem (tabling)
Sew
"A"
(cut)
"B"
(Fold)
"C"
(Final shape)
"B"
"A"
"C"
Weave in same direction as seams
