Model Shipways Bluenose, Instruction Manual

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Figure 8-3 also shows the sequence for
reeving lanyards. When looking out-
board at any deadeye, always start with
a knot in the upper left-hand deadeye
hole. Consequently, port deadeyes have
the knot aft and starboard deadeyes
have it forward. Keep an eye on the
masts. Rigging the shrouds can pull
them out of alignment.
Note: The upper deadeyes (laser cut) on
the lower shrouds are oval. On the real
vessel, wire rigging is spliced just above
the upper deadeyes. Wrap thread
around the shrouds to simulate the
splice.
Shrouds for the fore and main topmast
run through spreaders, then set up at
the hull. They have smaller deadeyes.
Main topmast shrouds start at the
spreaders and set up to futtock shrouds
(Figure 8-4). Make the futtock shrouds
from brass wire.
Spreader lifts replace the fore topmast
shrouds (Figure 8-5) .
Once the shrouds are up, add the rat-
lines (Figure 8-6). Make the sheer pole
from brass wire, then paint it.
Before installing the ratlines, give them
a generous coating of beeswax. This will
help hold them in a slight downward
curve. If the ratlines tend to bow up, tug
them gently into position. Touching the
loops with white glue will help freeze
them. Ratlines are difficult to do if tied
with clove hitches. Use half hitches and
avoid pulling the ratlines too tight,
thereby altering the spacing between
shrouds. The step or space between rat-
lines should be a scale 14 to 15 inches.
Note: Ratlines on the upper main top-
mast shrouds do not extend to the top,
so a crew member can furl topsails at
the lower masthead.
2. Fore & Aft Stays
Install the fore and aft stays unless an
optional method was selected. Be care-
ful not to pull the masts out of align-
ment. Begin with the forward lower
stays and work aft and up.
The jumbo jib stay sets to a bail bolted
to the deck. Make it from brass wire
(Figure 8-7). The jib and balloon stay
belay to fittings on the bowsprit.
The pullback stay and main topmast
stay have a lanyard at one end to tight-
en the stay. While details heighten a
model’s appearance, these lanyards can
be omitted and the stays simply seized
to the fitting. The spring stay has an eye
splice at both ends. It belays to the bails.
Topmast Flying Backstays: During races,
a port and starboard main topmast fly-
ing backstay was rigged. Those who are
building Bluenose in this configuration
can install one backstay tight and the
other slack.
3. Bowsprit Rigging
Backropes, guys, and bobstays are tight-
ened with turnbuckles. Make them from
brass (Figure 8-8), along with the bob-
stay and guy plates (Figure 8-9).
4. Footropes
The bowsprit has footropes and stir-
rups, but the main boom just has
footropes. Apply a heavy coat of
beeswax to coax these lines into pleas-
ing curves. Freeze them with a touch of
white glue if necessary. Footropes that
don’t droop properly look awful.
5. Running Lights
Glue the britannia running lights to a
flat piece of stripwood, then attach the
board to the fore shrouds (Figure 8-10).
Take another look before moving on.
Check that a mast wasn’t pulled out of
alignment. Now is the time to correct
any mistakes.
Running Rigging
Decide whether to rig with or without
sails or with a few furled. The following
discusses the choices and how to rig
them. Although the rigging sequence
isn’t critical, starting at the bow and
working aft is recommended.
Attach as many lines as possible to sails
or spars before mounting on the model.
Play out enough line for reeving, han-
dling, and belaying. Don’t be in a hurry
to snip them flush. They may need
retensioning as rigging progresses.
Sheet 6 contains the belaying plan.
Belay the line, then add a coil to each
belaying point.
1. Jumbo Jib, Jib & Balloon Jib
Installing sails: Substitute split rings for
hanks. Real hanks are difficult to make
at 3/16” scale. Set sails either to port or
starboard, but be consistent. It looks bet-
ter.
Jib and Balloon Jib
: Fit halliards and tacks
tightly. Downhauls can be either tight or
hung a little loose. Tighten the sheet on
the sail side. The other sheet drapes
over the stay and hangs loosely toward
the belaying points. Again, apply a
heavy coat of beeswax so these lines
droop on command.
No sails: Bring down the halliard block
with the downhaul attached (Figure 9-
1). Sheets are removed with the sails or
left lying on deck.
Jumbo Jib
: Lace the sail to the boom by a
method shown on the plans. Sheet and
halliards set up tight.
Hook the topping lift to the end of the
boom. However, because it also serves
as a fish tackle (hoists anchors), it could
hook to the eyebolt in the buffalo rail.
No sail: Set the boom in its crutch, tight-
en the sheet, and bring down the hal-
liard block.
2. Staysail
Tighten the staysail’s sheet, halliards,
and tack. Notice the unique racing hal-
liard. Install it or the simpler fishing
halliard.
No sail: Bring the peak halliard block to
the foremast and hook it to the throat
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