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your proportional dividers to the number
of planks in
Belt A
. Span the width of
Belt A
with the long legs. The distance
between the points on the short legs is
the width of each plank in the belt. Mark
these lines on the bulkheads with a pen-
cil.
Belt A
is now completely marked.
The next step is to cut planks to fit
between the marks.
Belt A
doesn’t
require spiling, so make straight tapered
planks. Start at
Bulkhead H
. Use four
planks, one from
Bulkhead H
to
Bulkhead L
, another from
Bulkhead L
to the stern,
Bulkhead H
to
Bulkhead
D
, and
Bulkhead D
to the stem. First,
lay a piece of planking stock over
Bulkheads H
through
L
. In pencil, mark
their overall length on the plank, then
the position of each bulkhead. Next,
using a set of dividers or tick strip, lift
the plank widths from the marks on the
bulkheads and transfer to the stock.
Draw a line through the points and cut
the plank. Trace this tapered plank to
obtain another for the other side of the
hull. Repeat for the remaining planks in
Belt A
.
Install the planks. Repeat the process for
the next strake, but stagger the butts
(Figure 2-6). Use four planks, one from
Bulkhead G
to
Bulkhead C
, another
from
Bulkhead C
to the stem,
Bulkhead
G
to
Bulkhead K
, and
Bulkhead K
to
the stern. This last plank spans about
four-and-a-half bulkhead spaces.
Moving to the next planking strake,
stagger the butts starting at
Bulkhead F
.
Continue until the other strakes in
Belt
A
are completed.
Note: Planks in
Belt A
and a few in
Belt
B
extend to the counter and glue to the
horn timbers (Figure 2-7)
Laying the Planking in Belt B and Belt C:
These belts have eight strakes about the
same width as those in
Belt A
. If the
temporary batten is still in place, remove
it. Lay the planks for
Belts B
and
C
, but
remember to stagger the butts.
Laying the Planking in Belt D:
This belt
contains the garboard strake (next to the
keel) and contains only seven strakes.
Note: Planks widen near the stern, so
use wider stock.
Sheet 2 shows a complete planking pro-
file. Follow it to determine plank widths
in
Belt D
aft. The hull planking layout
doesn’t show all the planks aft, so the
profile view is necessary.
Plank Variations within a Belt:
Suppose a
belt has seven planks the same width,
but the eighth one must be wider to
complete the belt. Cause for worry?
Certainly not. No planking job, even on
real ships, is that precise. After all, these
are hand-cut planks and slight variances
will occur. The important thing is to
keep their flow smooth.
Fashion Piece:
Once planking is complet-
ed, add the fashion piece at the stern
(Figure 2-8).
Natural Wood, Double Plank Option:
Most wooden ships have one layer of
external planking. However, many
builders are familiar with double-
planked European kits or want a natur-
al wood finish typical of Navy Board
models. Even though
Bluenose
should be
painted, its hull can be double planked
with the kit’s walnut strips.
To cover the exposed rails, cap them
with walnut, stain them a similar color,
or substitute walnut when making
them. Follow the basswood planking
process. Using longer strips will work
better now, because plank shapes are
already defined. Simply lift dimensions
from the hull and cut the walnut. When
completed, sand and finish the hull
with Floquil oil or glaze, or tung oil.
Finally, add a coat of wax, then polish.
7. Planking Inboard
(Ceiling Planks)
Only the inboard transom is ceiled with
3/64” planks.
8. Planking the Decks
Coamings
: Before planking the deck,
decide how to treat the hatch, cabin,
skylight, and companionway coamings.
The recommended approach (follows
shipwright practice) is to glue the coam-
ings to their appropriate bulkheads,
then plank around them. Be sure to glue
and pin 1/8” thick scrap wood under-
neath each coaming’s free sides prior to
installation. This takes the place of deck
beams and provides a permanent land-
ing for the planks (Figure 2-9).
18
Fig. 2-10 Nibbing Ideas
Nibbing Strake
Planks
Optional Strip
Over Planks
Correct Nibs
No Nibs
Fake Nibs
Thin Wood
or Paper Strip
Over Planks
Summary of Contents for Bluenose
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