Model Shipways Bluenose, Instruction Manual

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6. Planking the Outer Hull
Belt Layout
: Planking from the deck to
the keel is tapered fore and aft.
Consequently, the hull is divided into
Belts A through D .
On Sheet 2, use a tick strip to mark the
belt seams along each bulkhead.
Transfer these points in pencil to the
model. Now temporarily tack four,
1/16” x 3/32” basswood battens along
the port and starboard belt lines.
Battens assure an accurate run of planks
by correcting any errors in drafting, tick
strip marking, or transferring.
Once the six battens are in place, check
their flow. Look at the model from the
side and from the bow and stern. Do the
battens have a pleasing, smooth curve?
Are they symmetrical? If necessary,
adjust the lower battens referring to the
planking profile on Sheet 2. When
everything is fair, make sure the belt
seams are clearly visible. Remark those
that aren’t. Now, either remove the bat-
tens or leave them in place until they
interfere with installing a plank.
Tapering Plank Edges
: As planking pro-
ceeds, the edges of a particular plank
may require tapering to butt flush
against its neighbor. Properly machined
planks have square edges. Butting them
together on a hull may produce small
gaps. Most are sealed with glue or
wood filler, or caulked on a real ship.
Plank edges are often deliberately
sloped to ensure they butt against each
other, while providing a sufficient gap
for caulking. To create a perfectly
smooth hull without gaps, trim each
plank edge as it is fit. The decision to
taper or rely on filler is yours.
Planking the Transom
: Cover the transom
with 3/64” planks. Transom and hull
planks most likely intersect in a miter.
However, one option is to butt the
planks at the joint (Figure 2-4).
Planking above the Waist
: Planking is
1/32” thick from the rail to the waist,
and fairly uniform in width. Narrow
planks are used on Bluenose , but wider
ones are a modeling option.
Plank from Waist to Deck Level
: This
1/16” thick plank (or several narrow
ones on the real ship) requires special
treatment before gluing in place. First,
either scribe or omit the cove (groove at
the top edge). Once the plank is paint-
ed, the cove will show up. Next, cut
small scupper slots in the plank at deck
level (even slightly oversize ones will still
look good). Each side of the bulwark
stanchions has scuppers (Figure 2-5).
Laying the Planks in Belt A
: Planks below
deck level are 1/16” thick. Each belt is
done separately, so planking can start
with any one. However, it’s logical to
begin at the top and work down. Belt A
has eight, 1/16” thick strakes. The maxi-
mum plank width, at Bulkhead H , is
roughly 1/8” on the model (8” on the
real ship). Use 1/8” wide strips for the
midship area and 3/32” strips where
the taper permits.
Lift the plank widths from the hull
planking layout with a tick strip. If any
batten locations were changed, divide
the space on each bulkhead into eight
equal plank widths. Set the slide on
17
Fig. 2-7 Planks at Counter
Horn Timber
Stern Block
Counter - Sternpost Intersection View
From Below
Rabbet
Planks
This Plank
Goes on Counter
This Plank
Goes to Sternpost
in Rabbet
Horn Timber
Fig. 2-8 Fashion Piece
Transom
Waist
Notch Over Waist
Fig. 2-9 Coaming Supports
Supports for Coaming
and End of Deck plank
Center Keel
Coaming
Bulkhead