Model Shipways Bluenose, Instruction Manual

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3. Planking Butts
Few trees grow as tall as ships are long.
Consequently, real planks were generally
20 or 30 feet in length. Some builders
think a plank as long as the model is easi-
er to use. They scribe in fake butts or omit
them. Although this can be done, working
with shorter planks has its advantages.
For example, tapers mark quicker and
only one hand is needed to hold and fas-
ten the plank. Should a mistake happen,
just a small piece is affected. So, the fol-
lowing is based on scale-length planks.
Because this is a plank-on-bulkhead
model, butts must occur on bulkheads
and won’t simulate shipwright practice.
Use a plank length (about 7” or 37 scale
feet) to cover four bulkhead spaces.
Occasionally, a longer or shorter plank
may be necessary to avoid stubby pieces
at the bow and stern.
To emulate shipwright practice, stagger
the butts (Figure 2-2). This also applies
to deck planking. Covering four bulk-
head spaces follows the rule; i.e., three
full plank widths between butts on a
single frame. One plank covering three
bulkhead spaces won’t work, because that
leaves only two full planks between butts.
4. Spiling
Edge bending planks on real ships
occurs on a limited basis. Wood is rigid,
so many planks must be cut to shape.
Spiling (Figure 2-3) is simply a matter of
transferring curves to a straight plank,
then sawing them out. To test if spiling
is required, lay a tapered strake against
the hull and see if it can be edge bent
into position without excessive force. If
not, then spile and cut the strake to shape.
In most cases, basswood strips are flexible
enough to edge bend in place.
5. Fastening the Planks
A commercial plank clamp is available,
but is more trouble than it is worth. It
screws into bulkheads, leaving a big
hole to contend with when installing
subsequent planks. Model Expo, how-
ever, sells a hull planking clamp
(MX103) that relies on side clamps to
hold planks in place. Or, use metal
push pins to position planks, but be
careful not to split the wood. If neces-
sary, drill a pilot hole first. Smear a
light film of white or woodworker ’s
glue along the edge of the plank with
your finger, then touch each bulkhead
with thin cyano to quickly affix the
plank. Be careful not to glue your fin-
gers to the model.
While glue alone will secure a plank,
small brass brads or wooden treenails
provide additional holding power and
duplicate shipwright practice. If using
fine, brass brads, cut off and discard the
heads, then hammer in. Treenails are
commercially available, but making your
own is easy. Buy a package of long bam-
boo skewers, strip off short lengths, and
pull through a drawplate to the desired
diameter. Drill holes through the plank
into the frame, dip the treenail in white
or yellow glue, and drive in place. Nip
the dowel flush with the planking or buy
a treenail cutter. It mounts in a hand-
piece, and is an expensive accessory.
Another alternative is to whittle flat
toothpicks (round ones don’t work as
well) to a point. Place the entire tooth-
pick in the hole, rap sharply with a
10-inch bastard file, and break off the
remaining portion. A file works better
than a hammer, because its serrated sur-
face catches and firmly holds the head
of the toothpick, permitting it to be dri-
ven in tightly. Exterior stubble is
dressed and sanded smooth when
treenailing is completed.
For more authenticity, add treenails
where each frame is located on the real
ship. Treenails are essential if the model
is left bright (unpainted).
16
Fig. 2-4 Hull & Transom Plank Intersections
Hull
Transom
OPTIONS
Fig. 2-5 Plank With Cove & Scuppers
Scupper
Bulwark Stanchion
Waist
Cove
Fig. 2-6 1st Two Strakes in Belt A
Bulkheads
View Foreshortened