TS, TR, TX engines workshop manual
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57. Remove the rectifier from the flywheel housing.
58. Remove the cable retaining clip from inside the housing.
59. Remove the stator gently easing the cable through the
housing as this is being done.
60. Remove the fanshroud.
61. Use a brass drift to remove the flywheel key.
62. Remove the intermediate bearing retaining bolts from the
side of the crankcase.
63. Remove the intermediate bearing dowels by screwing a
suitable bolt into the dowel and withdrawing it.
The bolt should be left in the dowel to identify the correct
assembly procedure as the dowel is threaded at one end
only.
64. Remove the alternator adaptor plate.
65. Remove the flywheel end main bearing housing.
66. Use the Service Tool. 317-50058 or 39317 to remove the
crankshaft gear.
67. Gently remove the crankshaft from the crankcase.
68. Remove the split thrust washers from inside the crankcase
at the gear end and from the main bearing housing.
Rebuild
When assembling the engine use normal engine lubricating oil
to spray all moving parts during assembly. All bearing surfaces
must be well lubricated including the valve stems and the cups
of the push rods.
New camshaft bushes should be immersed in clean engine oil
for four hours before fitting.
The pistons with rings and connecting rods assembled, must
be submerged in oil just before fitting into the cylinder.
After submersion drain both ways so that no oil is left in the
combustion chamber or inside the piston.
Replace all joints and gaskets.
1. Turn the crankcase on to its manifold side using a suitable
piece of wood to support it.
2. Remove the sump.
3. Grease the steel backs of the split thrust washers and refit
them into the gear end of the crankcase and the main bearing
housing.
4. Replace the crankshaft taking care to ensure the bearing
locating dowel is in line with the hole in the crankcase before
the dowel enters the housing.
If, on the final assembly, the holes are not in line use a brass
drift to rotate the bearing housing.
Check exact alignment by using a tapered rod.
5. Replace the Intermediate bearing dowel with a bolt fitted to
ensure the threaded section is facing outwards.
6. Refit the crankshaft balance weights in their correct order with
the larger flanges (and part numbers) facing each other.
7. Replace the crankshaft end float shims on to the main bearing
housing and refit the housing and all bolts.
8. Check and adjust if necessary the crankshaft end float.
9. Remove the bearing housing bolts.
10. Replace the alternator adaptor making sure the slot on the
face is towards the top of the crankcase.
11. Remove the centre bearing dowel.
12. Replace the oil seal to the bearing housing.
13. Replace the centre bearing dowel and the dowel retaining
bolt.
14. Replace the flywheel key.
15. Heat the crankshaft pinion gear and ensure the "0" timing
mark will be facing outwards when the gear is refitted to
the crankshaft.
16. Replace the sump with four bolts (one each side).
17. Turn the crankcase the correct way up.
18. Replace the fanshroud.
19. Replace the stator.
20. Replace the cable clip.
21. Turn the crankshaft until the flywheel key is at TDC and fit
the mandrel, Service Tool 317-50045.
22. Rub chalk over the flywheel timing marks to aid identification
during later procedures.
23. Use a crane (if available) to replace the flywheel ensuring
that it is offered up dead square.
24. Remove the mandrel and replace the flywheel retainer.
25. Check that the 'key is still in position and turn the flywheel
to check for free movement.
26. Replace the rectifier, cables and cover.
The two large cutouts in the cover are towards the bottom
of the rectifier.
27. Stand the engine on its flywheel using a suitable piece of
timber between the recessed flywheel and the plinth.
28. Remove the sump.
29. Replace the push rod cam followers. a tool with a rubber
suction pad (as used to grind in valves) can be used to
advantage.
30. Gently replace the camshaft keeping it square at all times,
and ensure that the "0" timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft gears coincide exactly with each other on final
assembly.
31. Replace the fuel pump tappet guides, the end with the two
flats enters the crankcase first.
Take extreme care to ensure the bolt holes are correctly
aligned.
32. Replace the fuel pump tappet guide bolt making sure a
copper washer is fitted under the bolt head.
33. Using the flywheel as a pivot rotate the crankcase until No.1
cylinder crankshaft throw is at TOC
34. Replace No.1 cylinder, connecting rod and piston.
35. Fit a retaining rube on to one end of the cylinder studs and
secure it with a hand tightened nut.
36. Push down on the top of the piston as the crankcase is
turned' until the piston is at BDC.
37. Fit the connecting rod bearing cap.
38. Rotate the crankcase to check for free movement.
39. Repeat items 33 to 38 for the remaining cylinders.
40. Replace the oil pump push rod and then the pump.
41. Replace the sump ensuring the oil strainer is fitted
correctly.
42. Turn the engine the normal way up and replace the oil
dipstick.
43. Replace the fuel pump tappets and tappet caps.
44. Refit the air baffles with the spring clips facing the manifold
side.
45. Replace the fuel pumps and shims.
46. Replace the governor sleeve assembly with the spring ring
facing outwards.
Summary of Contents for TS/TR1
Page 1: ...P027 08270 edition 8 April 2021 TS TR TX Engines Workshop Manual T SERIES ...
Page 80: ...TS TR TX engines workshop manual 80 T SERIES ENGINES WORKSHOP MANUAL 90 ct ical Wiring i g ...
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