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Copyright 2005 Laser Arts
FINISHING RESIN METHOD:
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If you wish to add some color to your tails, there are a few ways of doing it. The most consistent is to lightly spray the
mylars with a spray paint of whatever color you want. You can also use food coloring in your epoxy resin when mixing it
up.
•
For this method, you should use mylar, but saran wrap can work if you are VERY careful with it. WE RECOMMEND
that you use mylar as the results are MUCH better.
•
Work with one part at a time unless you have experience with it and can get them all laid up before the resin begins to
set.
•
Lightly rub some finishing resin into the balsa. Lay the fiberglass on the part and slightly wet out the glass with more
finishing resin. Use paper towels to soak up the excess epoxy from the glass/balsa. Set the part on mylar (shiny side), lay
another piece of mylar on top of it, and place weight on top of it to dry. Let it dry over night. The resin takes longer to dry
when sandwiched like this than it would if left out exposed to the air. When dry, trim the fiberglass and lightly sand the
outside edges parts if needed, though you should have a nice smooth finish when the parts finish drying.
•
The finished tail parts should be between 9 and 12 grams or so. If you end up a little higher than this, you’ll be okay and
won’t have any problem balancing the model, as there is room for error.
6.
Sand a 45 degree bevel on leading edge of the elevator.
7.
Sand a 45 degree bevel on the leading edge of the rudder. It DOES matter which side you sand. The tape hinge will be on the right
side if you are right handed and on the left side if you are left handed.
8.
Use a thin strong packing tape for hinging the vertical fin and rudder as shown below.
9.
Glue one of the control horns into the rudder. It goes on the RIGHT side if you are RIGHT handed or on the LEFT side if you are
LEFT handed.
10.
Glue one of the control horns into the elevator.
11.
If you wish, you can add a “fillet” of fiberglass to the corner of the control horn and the rudder/elevator. This will strengthen the
joint it a little bit. You should have some scraps of fiberglass left over after glassing the tails.
12.
Tape hinge the elevator like you did the fin/rudder.
13.
Remove the 2 cross grain ¼” balsa parts from the sheet. (They are the longer ones about 2-3/4” long.
14.
Wrap sandpaper around the small end of the CF boom. Lay it on the table and rub one of the ¼” balsa pieces against it to sand a
groove into the balsa part as shown below. Repeat this for the other ¼” balsa piece that is the same length. Be careful and make
sure you do not sand an angle into these parts. Round one end of the wider of these parts. After you have sanded the groove into the
part, glue it to the stabilizer using thick CA, using the engraved lines as a guide to make sure you glue it on straight, with the
rounded end to the front. Use thin CA on the corners to make sure you have a good glue joint here. Be careful not to wick the thin
CA too close to the bevel as that may reduce the bonding of this part to the boom later on.
