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Copyright 2005 Laser Arts
2.
Make sure your servos fit on the servo plate, them wrap your servos in masking tape to make it easier to remove or replace them if
you need to. After this, secure them to the servo plate using hot glue or thick CA, making sure that everything fits over the plate.
3.
Add Z-Bends to one end of the pushrod wires. Make sure they are as tight as possible without binding. If they are loose, there will
be slop in your control linkages, which you do not want.
4.
Plug in your servos and turn on your radio, making sure the trims are centered and adjust your control horns to make sure they are
vertical. Insert the Z-bends in the pushrods into the control horns.
5.
Insert the other ends of the pushrod through the pushrod housings and out the back.
6.
Glue down the servo plate into the fuselage using hot glue. You can also use some strong thin double sided tape to hold it down.
7.
Pull the pushrod tight to the control horn and glue down the pushrod housing to the boom using this CA. MAKE SURE you do not
get any glue inside or on the pushrod wire. You can use thin CA to tack it down every few inches. If you are using shorter pieces of
pushrod housing, be VERY CAREFUL not to get glue into the housings or on the wire since there are more openings. Space the
pushrod housings evenly out to the back with the last one being about 1” in front of the control horns. Check that the wire moves
freely each time you tack glue the housing down.
8.
Trim the wires about ¼” or so in front of the control horns.
9.
Cut 2 lengths of wire, about 1-1/2” long. Make a Z-bend on the end of each of them. Make sure that the Z-bends are tight and
small. There should be plenty of wire left if you need to try it a few times to get them right.
10.
Slide one length of shrink tube over the ends of the pushrod wire. Insert the short Z-bend wire into the control horn. Slide the
shrink tube over the wires to hold them together. Turn on your radio and make sure trims are still centered and control surface is
flat and shrink the tubing using a soldering iron. Add a drop of thin CA to each end of the tube. Repeat this for the other pushrod.
RADIO INSTALL:
1.
There is plenty of room in the fuselage to accommodate most mini/micro receivers. We suggest using a 4 cell AAA 300 MAh
NiMH battery for the receiver battery. To save weight, plug the battery directly into the receiver, making sure it is oriented
properly.
2.
Install your battery and receiver so that the model balances where it is shown on the plans. A good place to start is on the rear of the
wing spar. Adjust it from there after flying, depending on your flying style.
3.
Use tape to hold down the aft of the canopy hatch. The angled cut in the front should be enough to hold the front end down. If you
wish, you can use some scrap balsa to make a tongue to further hold it down.
FLYING:
1.
Double check the wing hold down mounts in the fuselage, the wing bolts, and tail surface every time you go out to fly. If there is
any damage or wear, repair it before flying.
2.
Don’t forget to charge your receiver battery! It’s not fun showing up at the field with a dead battery …
3.
Pick a day with little or no winds for your first flight.
4.
Make sure the controls are working smoothly and in the right direction.
5.
Give your QF2 a light toss into the wind (if any). Adjust the rudder and elevator trims to get a nice straight glide. From about 6’
high, you should get a glide of 60 to 80 feet (or more).
6.
Gradually increase the strength of your throws to get the model properly trimmed and some longer glides/flights out of it. When
you’re ready, move onto discus launching with it.
7.
For Discus launching, start out with gentle launches and gradually increase to stronger launches. There is a right way to grip the
launch peg when discus launching. Your index finger goes on top and the rest of your fingers go below the wing and use the first
joints in your fingers (or just in front of) to grip the peg. Do NOT use the second finger joints because it will mess up your
launches. Do NOT hold the plane level by the throwing peg; let it hang down a bit as you start to spin. As you spin, it will come up
quickly. When you release, do NOT try to give it extra force by bending your elbow forward. Instead of helping, it will hurt your
launch and possibly cause it to “hook” sideways … and it wasn’t designed to knife edge close to the ground!
8.
After you release, the plane should climb quickly and straighten out almost immediately. If it “hooks” or tries to “knife edge”, then
you are releasing it too early, too late, or hooking your elbow.
9.
When the plane begins slowing, push over to level out before it stalls. You want to have a little energy to move out, but not too
much that you waste your launch height.
