J 105, Owner'S Manual

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J/105 Owner Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 49
Aluminum Spars -­‐ are subject to corrosion and fittings should be routinely inspected and replaced
when necessary. Particular problem areas over time can be fasteners around boom vang, boom
and mast ends, and gooseneck attachment brackets.
Booms -­‐ often have a shorter life than masts, particularly on race boats that do a lot of windward-­‐
leeward buoy racing in breezy conditions. In some class boats it is common practice to pull the
boom vang hard going upwind (vang-­‐sheeting) and then release the boom vang several inches
going downwind. However if one bears away without first releasing the boom vang (from its
vang-­‐sheeted position) then most booms will bend under this load. Repeated occurrences will
shorten the life of the boom and could cause breakage.
Rig Cutting Tool -­‐ Every sailboat should carry aboard a tool that is capable of cutting through
standing rigging quickly. When a mast does break, the portion that is in the water can easily ram
a hole and potentially sink a boat. You may not have time to unwrap the rigging tape and pull
clevis pins at all the attachment points. The top of the line cutters are hydraulic, which can be
used on wire or rod rigging. For small one designs (ex…J22, J24 & J80), a good hacksaw should
be carried at a minimum.
Other Structure
Bulkhead Tabbing -­‐ the primary structural bulkheads of the boat are tabbed both to the hull and to
the deck. This tabbing (or fiberglass tape) should be inspected annually and, especially, after any
groundings or excessive exposure to “hard trailering”. If there is any evidence of gelcoat cracking
or actual tabbing visibly loose or beginning to peel, ensure that a marine surveyor inspects the
boat and recommends adequate remedies to correct potential damage.
Hull-­‐to-­‐Deck Joint -­‐ all modern J/Boats are built with a “glued” PLEXUS (2-­‐part elastomer glue)
hull to deck joint. It is an ISO/ABS approved method for hull-­‐to-­‐deck bonding. This joint should
be inspected at least annually and, in particular, if any leaking is noticed inside the hull.
Sometimes the best check is to use a “non-­‐permanent dye” in water to squeeze into the hull/deck
joint and look for “runs” inside the hull. If any leaking is observed, have the hull to deck joint
surveyed and have the surveyor make recommendations for adequate remedies to correct
potential damage.
Chainplate Fittings -­‐ Both port and starboard chainplates and the bow and stern chainplates
should be checked at least annually. Look for leaks where they intersect the deck.
Bow Sprit System -­‐ the sprit system is a combination of a carbon tube, pulley system and an
integral bulkhead/ bow support. The system can easily be damaged, particularly when struck
laterally or vertically at the end of the pole with any force (e.g. when rounding marks hitting
sterns, hitting metal buoys, or burying the bow in steep seas under full force of the asymmetric
spinnaker too many times). Regularly inspect the sprit for excessive wear where the sprit
intersects the outer bearing at full extension.
Deck Hardware
Lifelines & Lifeline Fittings -­‐ should be replaced at least every 10 years or at the first sign of
corrosion or damage to the wire strands, swages or turnbuckles. Many older boats have white
vinyl coated lifelines, which are no longer allowed by ORC Offshore regulations, as the vinyl can
disguise ongoing corrosion or damage to the wire. These should be replaced using appropriate
wire type and diameter immediately.