The three basic rules for proper burning are:
1. Use dry and clean wood.
The stove is suitable for burning so-called 'stackable fuels': wood and briquettes. We assume you will be using dry fuels only. So, this also holds
for the kindling paper and cardboard. Wet fuel costs more energy, leaves moisture on the glass and soils the flue.
2. Do not temper the burning process excessively.
Allow the stove sufficient time to warm up (stay with it at this stage) and do not temper the fire too quickly. Bear this rule in mind: you must
not temper a stove until it has warmed up properly.
3. Always make sure there is enough fresh air.
In houses today, cracks and chinks have often been sealed. Opening a small grate or cantilever window will ensure
sufficient fresh air, provided no fresh-air-supply system is used.
•
The main thing when making the fire is that both the flue and the stove reach the proper temperature.
•
Each time you want to open the stove when burning, the air-control slide must be open (completely pulled out) to ensure proper air supply.
What you should know about the fuga eL
•
The Fuga eL is a radiant stove with convection which, when the stove is burning properly, ensures a fine heat distribution.
•
The burning chamber is lined inside with high-grade ceramic firebrick elements (prisolith).
•
The aeration slide is opened by pulling it outwards (kindling position).
•
You open the door on the right side of the stove.
You have purchased a wood stove. In many respects, wood used as fuel is an ideal choice.
But what exactly is wood? Under the influence of sunlight, a tree builds up wood cells from
CO
2
(carbon dioxide), water and minerals. So, in fact, wood is stored solar energy. In its
growth process, the tree takes CO
2
from the air and gives off oxygen in return. Also in terms
of the environment, wood is an ideal fuel. When it is left to rot, the same amount of CO
2
is
released as when it is burned. In environmental terms, we then say that wood is 'CO
2
-neutral'.
Only dry wood is stove wood
Not all wood qualifies as stove wood. Good burning is obtained by using wood that has been
seasoned for at least eighteen months. That is to say: preferably chopped wood that, stored
under a shelter and protected from the rain, can slowly let its moisture evaporate. Dry wood
does not sizzle in the fire and does not soot the glass.
Erik Bendien created the wood store that allows wind access from every side. This is logical - wind dries
wood. Hence the basic grid, which is free of the ground to avoid damp, the perforated side-panels and the
extra space above. The uprights and the grid are in stainless - galvanized - steel. After a while the corten-steel
side panels start to oxidise. It's designed that way because the thin layer of rust is both highly decorative,
and protects the panels against further corrosion. The basic module, with a single compartment, can handle
1.3 cubic meters of wood. This can be widened by the same dimensions. It looks good as a garden partition
or alongside the drive. With the user-friendly instruction you can put together The WoodStocker in no time at
all. The highly robust finished item can be manoeuvred when empty. And disassembling The WoodStocker is
just as easy, when you move house.
The fine heat from wood
The Woodstocker. Getting firewood good and dry.
Fuga eL
We congratulate you on the purchase of your stove. This manual will inform you about the best way of using the stove and the art of
keeping a perfect fire. Before using the stove, carefully read the text about breaking in the stove.
These heating instructions apply to the Fuga eL. They are merely intended as a guideline as your stove will behave differently according
to the place where it is installed, simply because the conditions are different. The flue, the weather, the quality of the wood used and
the climate conditions in the house determine your stove’s burning behaviour. In time you will develop your own directions for use,
based on these heating instructions.
Initial fire-up, a good start
You have purchased a brand-new stove, ‘zero on the meter’, has not seen a flame yet. This means you are going to take care of the initial
‘miles’. The ceramic firebricks will start evaporating moisture and your wood-burning stove will start setting. For this reason, the first few
times, do not make your fire too hot because otherwise the bricks could crack. You need not worry about any shrinkage cracks.
The initial fire-up requires some additional time and attention, as well as the approach we have outlined below for you in steps.
Before starting, please note the following important points:
•
When starting the fire in the stove, open the aeration slide. (This is the kindling position.)
•
You can properly control the fire with the aeration slide. The further the slide is opened, the more vigorously your fire will burn.
•
While firing-up the stove the first time some liquid might come down from the ceramic firebrick. Please put some old towels underneath
the stove before firing it up.
• Make sure there is sufficient ventilation.
Initial fire-up in steps
1. Open the aeration slide completely by
pulling it outwards (kindling position).
2. Light a large ball of dry paper against
the back plate of the burning chamber
and allow this fire to go out again.
3. Fill the stove with a handful of dry and
thin kindling wood, light it and make
sure that the aeration slide is open.
5. Allow the fire to go out and the stove to
cool off for an hour so that the moisture
in the firebrick can evaporate. Some
liquid might come free from the ceramic
fire-brick. Therefore place an old towel
underneath the stove before firing-up.
6. After an hour, you will start bringing the
whole stove at the proper temperature
using first some thin kindling wood.
Leave the aeration slide open.
4. Stir up the fire off and on by opening
and closing the aeration slide. Repeat it
a few times.
8
9
7. Then use thicker logs, ± 5x5 cm thick
and 20 cm long. At the same time,
leave the aeration slide open.
Close it a little bit when the fire is
burning properly.
