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If this type of cleaning is done while the paint is still wet in the gun, it
should be all that is necessary to keep the gun clean enough for next time.
Do not leave liquids in the cup overnight or for long periods.
The Gravity
Gun can be cleaned without hooking up to the hose. Simply wind out the
fluid knob all the way and pull the trigger - the thinner (solvent) will
stream out of the fluid nozzle. Repeat until clean.
PLEASE DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH OR ANYTHING METAL TO CLEAN
THE GUN OR CUP AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE.
DO NOT dissassemble the cup assembly - threads in your cup have been
sealed at the factory to prevent leakage under pressure.
The standard 1 quart (1000cc) cup can be used with most coatings
(including water-based). Also available as an accessory is our 2041T
teflon-coated cup.
CAUTION:
Never soak the complete spraygun in solvent
as this removes
the grease from the parts and distributes thinned paints throughout the air
passages. It could also damage internal parts such as the spindle valve
8021 or valve seals 8025. It may however, be necessary sometimes to
soak the aircap 6093 and nozzle 6082.
You may soak only the metal parts
in solvent and clean with the soft bristle cleaning brush 9045.
To reas-
semble, first oil or grease all moving and threaded parts.
CAUTION: Do not store the gun with the cup clamped down hard as this will
cause the gasket to flatten out. Do not lay the gun down on its side with
liquid material in it.
CLEANING FLUID COMPONENTS
All Fuji fluid components in the spray gun are manufactured from stainless
steel. To clean, flush solvent through the spraygun while the paint is still
wet inside the gun.
For a more thorough cleaning, remove all parts at the front of the barrel.
(collar, aircap, fluid nozzle etc.) Also remove the needle (from the rear of
the gun). Please note* the parts behind the nozzle are not removable. The
fluid coupler (where the cup assembly attaches) is not removable. If
necessary, use the supplied cleaning brush 9045 wetted with solvent to
remove paint particles from inside the fluid coupler and from the area
where the nozzle was installed.
Please do not soak the whole gun in
solvent
, this should never be necessary and it could damage the valve
assembly and valve seals.
The cup assembly can also be removed by loosening the swivel nut at the
top of the fluid tube. Upon re-installation, please do not overtighten the
swivel nut - it is basically a hollow nut. If you apply extreme torque, you can
cause damage to the nut.
FINISH PROBLEMS
ORANGE PEEL
- If the finish is rough and resembles orange peel then the
material is too thick. (Or perhaps you have the air control valve turned down
- please check that it is fully open). The ‘paint’ will not atomize properly and
the surface will be spotty. To remedy this, add more thinner (or appropriate
solvent). For fast drying products such as lacquers, you may also want to
add a lacquer retarder. This will slow the drying time allowing the material
to flow out and level nicely.
Retarders are available for other coatings too, such as Penetrol for oil-
based paints or Floetrol for latex house paints. These products go under
different names such as Flow-Out Additives etc. Please check with the
coatings manufacturer.
NOTE: With the newer water-based materials ‘orange peel’ is usually a
result of spraying on too thick a film.
Try spraying an extremely THIN FILM,
but still WET coat.
With most other coatings, orange peel is caused by
material being too thick or not enough atomizing power. This is why we
suggest leaving the air control valve fully open when experimenting with a
new coating material, otherwise it will cause confusion. If the the air control
valve is fully open (or perhaps removed for Latex spraying) then orange
peel can only be one cause - the material is too thick and must be thinned.
GRITTY FINISH
- If the material is too thin, it is likely to run or be over-
atomized, producing a rough gritty finish. Try thinning the product less and
spraying a wetter coat.
BLUSHING
- Blushing is the common term used when the finish looks
cloudy and white (sometimes also called blooming). It is caused by
moisture and is especially a problem when operating high pressure spray
equipment. The moisture comes from the compressor. This problem does
not usually occur when using the Fuji turbine because the air from the
turbine is warm, dry and uncontaminated. However, it is possible on very
humid days to encounter slight blushing. Using a retarder will often allow
moisture to escape, preventing the milky look.
FISH EYES
- If you are refinishing furniture or pianos, fish eyes could
become a problem. The cause is usually silicone or oil from polish which
has been liquified by the paint stripper that has now soaked into the bare
wood. This silicone prevents the lacquer from adhering to the wood. One
way to sometimes correct this is to seal in the silicone by misting on two or
three light coats of lacquer. Then spray on a regular wet coat. We
do not
recommend the use of a product known as ‘Fish-Eye Drops’ which is
essentially liquid silicone. Silicone will only contaminate the gun even
further. Anything that comes into contact with the silicone becomes
contaminated - such as; rags, aprons, bench tops, gloves.
