
27 |
P a g e
Edge 540/2.6m
When you are satisfied that the cable exit slot is positioned
correctly, make a cut with your Dremel and cut off wheel. The
cut off wheel will cut the fuselage material with ease, so keep
the tool steady.
You should now make up your pull/pull cables. Start by doing
one end only. Divide the cable supplied into two equal lengths.
Fit the threaded cable eyelets into a ball link, and feed through
the cable. The crimps supplied are spacious enough to pass the
cable through three times. By looping the cable around for a
third pass through the crimp, you minimize the chances of the
cable slipping and pulling through the crimp. Once you have
completed the crimp you may like to cover it with some heat
shrink. You can now pass the cable through the exit slot and fit
the ball link to the rudder control horn.
If you are using the phenolic servo arm provided in the
hardware pack, you can simply loop the cable through the slot
in the arm and crimp. If you elect to use an alloy arm, you can
repeat the same process as you have already completed at the
rudder end. Another item worth using is a SWB wire tensioner,
these items make keeping the cables in tension very simple.
Whichever type of arm you use the process to tension up the
cables is pretty similar. It’s important that you temporarily plug in
your rudder servo(s) to your receiver and centre them up using
your sub trim. The final fitting of the cables is a little easier if the
servo(s) are powered up and centred. Using some masking
tape, hold the rudder in place by taping the boost tab at the fin.
At this point you want to take care that you don’t move the
transmitter rudder stick. Now that everything is in place and held
in position, pull the cables taught and crimp. Don’t forget to
leave room for tensioning adjustment at the ball link. You do not
want everything wound right up and no thread left to fine tune
the cable tension.