9
GB
Diamond blades are available for different hardnesses of masonry materials, stone, concrete, reinforced
concrete, etc.
This machine must always be used with water.
Water will prevent the blade from overheating, greatly reduce the amount of harmful dust created by cutting,
remove the slurry from the cut, and extend the life of the blade.
The diamond impregnated segments operate on a principle of controlled erosion. The bond matrix holding
the diamonds is continually worn away by abrasion with the workpiece, exposing the harder diamonds to
stand proud from the bond matrix. Blades made for cutting harder materials will have a softer bond, allowing
the diamonds project more aggressively (but will not last as long). Blades made for cutting softer, abrasive
materials will have a harder bond, allowing them to resist the abrasiveness of the material and to last longer.
Without enough erosion of the bond matrix (the diamonds not exposed) and the blade becomes dull . This is
called glazing . If the blade seems to refuse to cut anymore,
it is glazed.
See below:
”Sharpening a Glazed Blade”
Never use a sharp motion or the blade will be damaged. Conversely, don’t feed too gently or the diamond
segments will become glazed. Keep the blade steadily working.
Take great care to keep the blade perpendicularly aligned to the kerf. If the blade is crooked, it will easily bind.
When cutting reinforced concrete, if embedded steel is encountered, take special care. Reduce the feed
pressure by about 1/3 and let the blade go at its own pace, if there is too much vibration the blade may be
destroyed. Once the steel is passed, continue normally.
WARNING: Never use blades for cutting a material other than the material they were intended for.
SHARPENING A GLAZED BLADE
Diamond blades may become glazed (dull). Once the diamond segments are glazed, the blade’s cutting
performance will degrade and the segments will overheat. To resharpen the blade, turn down the water
feed and make a few cuts in a very soft, abrasive material such as brick or an alumina oxide or silicon carbide
dressing stone.
MOUNTING THE BLADE
First make sure that the machine is unplugged.
1.
Loosen the drive tensioner knob fully.
2.
Loosen the thumb knob and slide the drive wheel cover plate out of the way. Remove the old drive wheel
if it is fitted.
3.
Loosen both guide tensioner knobs fully.
4.
Fit the blade in position with its grooves facing the male grooves in the left side guide wheels and ensure
that the blade is centered.
5.
Fit the drive wheel on the spindle with the tapered side facing out. If the drive wheel cannot fit past the
water plate, tighten the drive tensioner just enough so that the wheel can fit past the water plate. Fit the
flange and turn it so that it aligns with the spindle. Using the face spanner wrench to immobilize the
wheel, tighten the arbor bolt using the T-handle box wrench.
6.
Tighten one guide tensioner knob, just enough to keep the guide wheel from slipping on the blade. To
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