22
To test gate for operation gently tap gate and observe. DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THIS CONTROL. DO NOT OIL.
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
The heater tank is equipped with anode rods to provide corrosion
control. At least once a year the anode rods should be checked
to determine if replacement is necessary. Initially the anode rods
are approximately 7/8” (22mm) in diameter with a 1/8” (3mm)
diameter steel core wire running down the center of the anode
material. THE ANODES SHOULD BE REPLACED when the 1/8”
(3mm) diameter core wire is visible as this means that the anode
material has been expended in the control of corrosion.
For models with top inlet and outlet, it is recommended that, before
removing the inner cover for cleaning, inspection or removal of
inner parts, you obtain two new nipple collars, part no. 74060.
The nipple collars on the heater will usually be damaged when
removed. New pipe collars will insure that the seal is such as to
prevent leakage of flue products when properly installed.
NOTE: Anode rod inspection may need to be made more
frequently in areas subject to acid rain that obtains their water
supply from surface water as the low pH will accelerate anode
activity.
CAUTION: Close cold water inlet valve serving heater and open
nearby hot water faucet to relieve the pressure in the heater before
attempting to remove anode(s) for inspection.
ELECTRICAL SERVICING
CAUTION
LABEL ALL WIRES PRIOR TO DISCONNECTION WHEN
SERVICING CONTROLS. WIRING ERRORS CAN CAUSE
IMPROPER AND DANGEROUS OPERATION.
VERIFY PROPER OPERATION AFTER SERVICING.
CHECKLIST AND SERVICE
INFORMATION
IMPORTANT
The installer may be able to observe and correct certain problems
which might arise when the unit is put into operation or when it is
refired after a prolonged shutdown. HOWEVER, it is
recommended that only qualified servicemen, using appropriate
test equipment, be allowed to service the heater.
BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY WHENEVER
POSSIBLE OR APPROPRIATE WHILE CHECKING EQUIPMENT.
BURNER OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS.
1. Refer to TROUBLESHOOTING.
NOT ENOUGH OR NO HOT WATER
1. Be certain the electrical disconnect switch serving the water
heater is in the ON position.
2. Check the fuses.
• The electrical disconnect switch usually contains fuses.
3. The capacity of the heater may have been exceeded by a
large demand for hot water.
•
Large demands require a recovery period to restore water
temperature.
4. Colder incoming water temperature will lengthen the time
required to heat water to the desired temperature.
•
If the heater was installed when incoming water
temperature was warm, colder water creates the effect of
less hot water.
5. Look for hot water wastage and leaking or open hot water
faucets.
6. Sediment or lime scale may be affecting water heater
operation. Refer to MAINTENANCE for details.
7. The heater’s temperature high limit sensor has activated.
Press the reset button on the thermostat.
8. Burner may not be firing at proper rate.
•
Check gas pressure. Adjust to obtain required manifold
pressure.
•
If rate adjustment is made, readjust burner air shutter.
9. Burner fan wheel may be dirty.
•
Clean fan wheel with a stiff brush.
• Readjust burner air shutter. Refer to the ADJUSTMENT
PROCEDURE section of this manual.
10. Flue baffles may have deteriorated excessively.
•
Remove jacket top and replace flue baffles. New flue
baffles may be ordered from the manufacturer, see en-
closed parts list for model application information.
•
If the jacket cover is removed for inspection, service or
baffle replacement, the sealer tape must be replaced.
Inner cover sealer tape, part number 6158 is available
from your distributor or the manufacturer.
WATER IS TOO HOT
1. Refer to WATER TEMPERATURE CONTROL.
WATER HEATER MAKES SOUNDS
1. Sediment or lime scale accumulations cause rumbling and
pounding noises when the heater is operating.
•
The sounds are normal, however, the tank bottom should
be cleaned. Refer to MAINTENANCE for details.
2. Some of the electrical components of the water heater make
sounds which are normal.
•
Contacts click or snap as the heater starts and stops.
•
Transformers often hum.
WATER LEAKAGE IS SUSPECTED
1. Check to see if the water heater drain valve is tightly closed.
Also check the cleanout opening for leakage.
2. The apparent leakage may be condensation which forms on
cool surfaces of the heater and piping.
3. If the outlet of the relief valve is leaking it may represent:
•
Excessive water pressure.
•
Excessive water temperature.
•
Faulty relief valve.
Excessive water pressure is the most common cause of relief
valve leakage. It is often caused by a “closed system”. If a check
valve is in the inlet system it will not permit the expanded hot
water volume to equalize pressure with the main. The relief valve
must release this water or the water heater or plumbing system
will be damaged. Refer to MAINTENANCE – RELIEF VALVE.
When such a condition is encountered, local codes or inspection
agency should be consulted to determine which system is
acceptable in your area. These may consist of:
